The temperature soar to 42DC. After lunch, I try to read some magazine. Within 30mins, I felt giddy and had a little difficulty trying to concentrate. So I follow the footsteps of Fang and Suat and hid in the room for the rest of the afternoon.
Immediately, I fell into deep sleep without taking a much needed shower. At 1600hrs, I crawled out of my bed to shower. Time to visit Taj before sunset.
Paris had the Eiffel Tower, China has The Great Wall. America has the Statue of Liberty. Malaysia has the Twin Tower (Petronas Tower). Singapore? We have Chilly Crab. No no no... I mean we have the Merlion. Till today, I still find it an awkward icon.
Besides costing 750INR to get into Taj Mahal, I don't have much to say about it. It was built by a King for his beloved wife in the 17 century. There're lots of marble, in fact, everything is built using marble. There are lots of Indian tourist and a couple of foreigners from China, Japan and Korea.
Indian Helicopter.
Rickshaw rider affectionately introduce their rickshaw as Indian Helicopter. After exiting Taj from the West Gate, we intended to visit the Agra Fort ( the King who built Taj lives in the fort). An Indian Helicopter followed and persuaded us for 15 mins to pilot us to the Fort,
Sensing that the Fort could be closed by sunset, we gave up and walk back towards the direction of our hotel at the East Gate.
Our stomach guided us to a rooftop restaurant.
Sunday, 29 April 2007
Thursday, 26 April 2007
2 more travel companions coming from Singapore
At long last, after hanging around Delhi for 5 days, my companion will be arriving today . I was practically lazing around in Delhi, doing almost the same thing for the past few days- reading, blogging, going to Connaught Place, eating at bakeries, McDonald's and occasionally Indian food.
1400hrs. as agreed on previously via email, we're meeting in Main Bazaar, also known as Paharganj. This place is where most budget GH are situated. I stayed in Yes Please GH, recommended by the Canadian who share taxi with me from the airport.
Each carrying a big bag pack and a small day pack, Suat and Fang walked into the lobby of Vivek Hotel. I stop reading the book review on Tokkien's latest work .
We greeted each other warmly. The last I saw Suat was 6 months ago.
At the beginning of my trip, I met Fang and our trekking gang at a hotel in Taipei. And now, the last leg of my travel, I can see Fang at a hotel lobby again. She was with me at the beginning and the end.
My welcome gift was food from Singapore- 4 slices of Pandan cake from Bengawan Solo.
Before departing S'pore, Fang actually made a lot of effort to research on the best food to bring over to Delhi from Singapore, knowing that I've yearned for S'pore food for months.
Charmaine has no idea what I like so Fang consider Chee Cheong Fan. But considering the limited space she has, she settles on the Pandan cakes.
We proceed to do the admin stuff of sorting out our belongings-those that we need for the golden triangle (Agra, Jaipur and Delhi as well as Varanasi). Basically, I emptied my trekking stuff (especially the warm clothing). With temperature soaring above 40 DC, warm cloths is the last thing I went to lug in my Mac Pac.
1400hrs. as agreed on previously via email, we're meeting in Main Bazaar, also known as Paharganj. This place is where most budget GH are situated. I stayed in Yes Please GH, recommended by the Canadian who share taxi with me from the airport.
Each carrying a big bag pack and a small day pack, Suat and Fang walked into the lobby of Vivek Hotel. I stop reading the book review on Tokkien's latest work .
We greeted each other warmly. The last I saw Suat was 6 months ago.
At the beginning of my trip, I met Fang and our trekking gang at a hotel in Taipei. And now, the last leg of my travel, I can see Fang at a hotel lobby again. She was with me at the beginning and the end.
My welcome gift was food from Singapore- 4 slices of Pandan cake from Bengawan Solo.
Before departing S'pore, Fang actually made a lot of effort to research on the best food to bring over to Delhi from Singapore, knowing that I've yearned for S'pore food for months.
Charmaine has no idea what I like so Fang consider Chee Cheong Fan. But considering the limited space she has, she settles on the Pandan cakes.
We proceed to do the admin stuff of sorting out our belongings-those that we need for the golden triangle (Agra, Jaipur and Delhi as well as Varanasi). Basically, I emptied my trekking stuff (especially the warm clothing). With temperature soaring above 40 DC, warm cloths is the last thing I went to lug in my Mac Pac.
Ganges
Every activity is held in (or around) the river.
The Hindu death ritual is held along the river bank. The body will be burned and eventually into the river.
Men shower in the river, there is even swimming lessons
Most parts of India, and especially so at the Ganges, are dominated by men( where are the women). I felt tempted to jump into the river which appears to be acceptably clean. But then again...I don't think so.
Directly on the street level besides our hotel, there was celebration accompanied by loud music. It went on for 5 days, from 0600hrs to 0200hrs. According to the locals, this is the wedding season.
We retreated to our room at midnight, children are talking exuberantly, loud music persisted on. I put on Sun Yanzi latest album to muff the street noise.
The Hindu death ritual is held along the river bank. The body will be burned and eventually into the river.
Men shower in the river, there is even swimming lessons
Most parts of India, and especially so at the Ganges, are dominated by men( where are the women). I felt tempted to jump into the river which appears to be acceptably clean. But then again...I don't think so.
Directly on the street level besides our hotel, there was celebration accompanied by loud music. It went on for 5 days, from 0600hrs to 0200hrs. According to the locals, this is the wedding season.
We retreated to our room at midnight, children are talking exuberantly, loud music persisted on. I put on Sun Yanzi latest album to muff the street noise.
Delhi
Central Park is located at Connaught Place. Singapore also have a place called Connaught Place. This park is surrounded by old British colonial style building. The park and the buildings reminds me of Singapore.
I like this park, I spend time sitting around the grass and read my book. SO nice.
India Visa
My visa expires on 30 May. Usually, Singaporeans are given 180 days tourist visa. For some reason, when I was ask by the Indian embassy, I just told him 60 days.
I will be home before 1 June 2007. HURREY. However, I shall keep you in suspense on my actual day of arrive.
HAHA!!! I'm so happy!
Monday, 23 April 2007
Annapurna Circuit Trek : 1st - 16th APR 2007
1 APR 2007- 20 DC
Kathmandu->Besisahar->BhulBhule
0700hrs-1230hrs. Alight at Tibet GH. 500rs
For the first 4 hrs journey, it is the same road leading to Pokhara. The bus turns into a different direction after crossing the big bridge that runs across Trisuli River.
After doing some calculation, I realise that I would have to work on a rather tight budget of 17,000rs for 24 days. I made a trip to the local bank hoping to be able to change my USD into Nepali rupees. No luck though. Then I went to one of the Western Union. To my delight, they do. The first offer was 36rs for 1 USD. I was willing to part my dollar for 65rs, knowing that I don't the have much of any option in a small town like this.
Now I feel safer. as a general guide, the higher you go, the higher the price of food and accommodation.
Besisahar->BhulBhule. 1hr. 35rs on local bus(runs every hour till 1700hrs).
Unmentioned in the guide book, you can hopped on a local bus that goes as far as BhulBhule. It stops in front of Thorong La GH. It pays to look like a local, unknowing to the bus conductor, I answer BhulBhule and handed a50 rs note and I was given a 15 rs change. You can walk if you want. It'll take 2-2.5hrs.
Thorong La GH looks busy with all the buses terminating here. Also, the nearby junction to the bridge makes it potentially noisy. I opted to cross the bridge to check out Manang GH. I saw the sign "Manaslu GH" and walk past it, thinking that Manang GH could be beyond that. I was wrong, there isn't any establishment beyond Manaslu.
BhulBhule
Manang GH is closed. I ended up at Hotel Arjun and Garden Restaurant. I was the only guest. There's a nice garden and interesting hot shower facilities that runs on gas. Rooms are basic but clean.
4 boys were running around and I starts to interact with them. Typical boys horsing around, getting a little physical. It is easy for Nepali to remember my name as the cartoon series Tom and Jerry is popular with the kids. Jerry also sounds like a Nepali food, sort of like a desert that is really sweet.
Haircut
If you are Asian and wants like to look like a local, I recommend you try having a haircut at a local barber. It works for me.
This morning the bus conductor of micro bus (passenger van) spoke to me in Nepali.Also the bus conductor on the local bus. The GH guy also spoke to me first in Nepali.
2 APR 2007
BhulBhule->Bahundanda->Jagat
0730hrs-Crawled out of bed. Strange. Somehow still want to sleep more. By 0830hrs, I was ready to go. 60minutes later, I arrived at NGADI. If I have known, i would have made this 60 mins walk yesterday. I like the field of crops that surrounds the GH.
120min. Arrived at Bahundanda. I was hungry. Entice by a signboard that says: "60 steps more and you wouldn't regret". True enough, I did not regret. After I ordered my chicken burger with ships,a western girl walk out to the dining area.I started a conversation with her.
She was from Slovakia and had only a guide with her. When my tea come, I moved over to sit at her table.She also did the Ghorepani Loop prior to ACT just like me! Except that she did an extension up to Chomrong. We both agree that it was our favourite town in this region.
I was getting ready to start my afternoon trek and the rain suddenly started. I am not in favour of walking in the rain. Furthermore, I got time. So I stayed and continue to chat with the Slovakian. We had a wonderful time talking about movies, books and India.
1430hrs. The rain stopped, it is time to go. I miscalculated the walking hours. It was supposed to be 3.5hrs. I stepped up my pace, just in case it took more than 3hrs 45mins to get to Jagat. I remember Ramesh's advice me not to walk in the dark...
Saturday afternoon. Ramesh sent me from Shammi's place to my hotel. Before he left, he gave me a few advice on trekking alone. He sounded concerned. I really appreciate him. Also, I promise myself that I will not put myself in an unnecessary dangerous position or situation. I have my family and friends waiting for me to return home safely. The other advice Ramesh gave me is to stay in towns with more GH. I heeded his advice and that's why I planned to stop over at Jagat.
Ambitious Singaporean
20 mins before reaching Jagat. I saw a group of trekkers ahead. On a closer look, I somehow have this feeling that they could be Singaporean. Soon I met my fellow Singaporean. I thought: "Yeah, I've got company" Not really though.
They have 16 days and they were planning to do the ACT and ABC. I thought doing the Circuit in 16 days is tight already. I guess many people had already advice them against their plans but I suppose they assume they could manage. I hope they don't push to hard and ended up having to be heli-evacuate out of the mountain. Honestly, I worried for them. Young Singapore men (I was once like them, I probably still is), we felt like we can do everything that our mind can perceived.
1800hrs, I was glad I made it here before the sun sets in 30mins. The Singaporeans wanted to press on to Chamje, 1 hr at least. We bid goodbye, good luck to them.
I took a walk around Jagat. There were so many tourist. This looks more like a major trekking route. Last night, I was the only guest in my GH. Tonight same too.
Passover
I saw the 4 Israelites men and started talking to them. Incidentally, today is the Passover. It is a major celebration for the Jews. Jesus and his disciples had the Last Supper on Passover too.
Levi 23:4-8
Numbers 9:1-14
Exodus 12
Egypt's refusal to let go of the Israelite angered God.The last plague God inflicted on the Egyptian was the killing of every first born in the land of Egypt with the exception of the Israelites. God instructed them to sacrifice lamb and smear the blood on the top and the side of their house. When God's destroyer come, they will 'passover' the Israelites (because of the blood on the house) and spare the killing of the first born as promise by God. See Prince of Egypt. It has a superb illustrated explanation of the Passover.
The Israelite who I spoke to explain a little to me. He said when their forefathers got out of Egypt, they were commanded by God to celebrate the Passover. And since today is the Passover, the 4 men would have some sort of celebration right here in Jagat. I was reminded that the Israelites are still obeying this millennium old command from God. And that THEIR forefathers were the people that God save from their slavery in Egypt.
We agree to walk together tomorrow, I would like to know more about their life and religion.
3rd APR '07-18 DC
Jagat->Tal
0715hrs. Got out of bed. I think I'll not make it on time to join the Israelites at 0800hrs. After placing order for my breakfast, I went up to pack my bag.
0730hrs-They walked by my place and I told them I'll catch up with them in a while.
Started reading the book of Amos. At 0815hrs I hit the road again.
The morning trek was hot as it was almost cloudless. I cross a couple of long suspended bridge, there are at least 300m long. My first chat with a trekker was a German, probably in his 40's. I think he's with the German camping group that I saw last night.
Half an hour later, I met a Korean girl. She spotted a short hairstyle, probably the first Korean woman I've seen with a hairstyle this short. We walked and chatted for awhile.
1015hrs. Finally caught up with the Israelites. They were taking a break in the shade. For men their age, I think they've walking pretty fast. They continued while I rested more. Before long, the Korean girl appears again. She started to complain about her load. It might be too much for her. I hope she make it or at least she'll find a porter on the way. I commended her for her command in English. She stayed and worked in NZ and Australia for a year. That helps her in her English.
For her, it is going to be a 1.5 year of travel. Actually, I don't understand why someone would like to be on the road for such a long time. I am 4 months away from home but I kept thinking about home all the time.
Alone or with a companion
I remember that last night, the Israelite man ask me if I like trekking alone or with a companion. That is a difficult question to answer.
Trekking alone gives me absolute freedom. I can wake up anytime, rest anytime, take long break if I want, or change my plans instantaneously. Most importantly, I can walk at my own pace, which could make a big difference to how you feel physically.
Walking at my own pace seems to be the most energy efficient. You walk according to how your body feels. Walking at some one's pace is different-You have to push yourself to catch up with someone faster than you; Stopping to wait for others could just be equally exhausting.
Trekking with a companion has the obvious benefit of a buddy system. There's someone to watch your back. You can make conversation. In the event of an accident or emergency, you've a partner to help you.
So, do I like to trek solo? It's is hard to tell, we'll see. I might find a good companion on the way.
Tal
I think I'm getting use to DB. Before I arrive at Tal, I've already made up my mind on DB for lunch.
I've wanted to lunch with my Israelites friend but 2 of them were some distance away. I felt a bit awkward to stick around uninvited, so I walked on. Looking for a place with a familiar name. I saw Potala GH and made a turn into the porch.
When I am done with DB, 4 westerner men came into the dining around to place order for lunch. From their attire, I can tell that they are going to the nearby waterfall. We talked and they asked why am I not staying in Tal. I paused for a while.
The entrance to Tal is grand. Set in a valley, Tal looks charming. With river running and mountains in the background. I can see a towering waterfall that is 50m high.
I went to take a better look at the waterfall. It really looks inviting. I counted that if I stay in Tal, I need 7 hrs to get to Chame. That's reasonable. So I change my plans and stayed in Tal instead of Barapani.
The water was too cold to sit under the running water. My next hour was spent sitting on the rock, sunbathing. I sung songs to God, I had a great devotional time.
4 APR '07
Tal->Chame
Knowing that today will be a 7hrs walk, I made an effort to wake up earlier.
I try not to eat eggs daily but today, I gave in to my desire to eat 2 omellete. I saw Bekh having his omelette sandwhiched between Tibetan bread, so I wanted to try that too.
Yesterday, an Australian couple checked into Potala GH too. They are probably in their 50's. They are really nice people. She always made an effort to thank the Nepali for their service, saying them in Nepali. When she realised that I'm alone in the dining hall, she invited me to join her and her husband. What a nice gesture I thought.
We share why we like trekking. Nepal's landscape is truly captivating. If only Singapore possessed 5% of the beauty and nature. She shared that though was struggling with the terrain, trekking actually gives her a peace of mind.
I spent most of the day trekking on my own. By 1130hrs, I've arrived at Danaque, 30mins earlier that I planned. Trekkers Inn is closed, as told by Potala GH. The owner has return to Kathmandu. The not so nice DB now cost 200rs.
1300hrs. On the road again. Chame is 3 hrs away at least.
After Bharatani, I met a Japanese woman. Her husband is Thai and they are residing in Bangkok.
I almost went by the wrong way. Luciky the Japanese woman's guide showes me the correct way to the next town, Bagarchap. Thank God, I would have gone on a long way.
At Koto Qupar, I was asked to sign in at a Police CHeckpoint. I was surprise to see the names of the 4 Singaporeans. I imagine them to be beyond CHame. They started their day at Dharapani, 2 hrs ahead of Tal.
10mins later, I meet them at a stream, melting ice and collecting the water. They wanted to stop at Chame too. I got company.
5th APR '07 - 12DC
Chame->Lower Pisang
I felt a bit guilty yesterday. It was a long day for me and I was trying to stay on the schedule. I passed by 2 local woman. After exchange of Nameste, they asked if I had medication for cuts or abrasion. Without thinking twice, I answer coldly with a 'No'.
I read an article about local people seeking medical help from trekkers. Some of these medical seekers just want to get western medicine. They had the impression that there's something magical.
I felt guilty because I doubt her immediately. I could have assess her injury (if ther's any) before assuming that she's faking it. Furthermore, I am a certified first aider. I wish I could have done better. The Parable of the Good Samaritan (Luke 10:30-35). I am a disciple and I slipped the chance to help someone who might potentially be in need. So I repented today.
As usual, I was walking alone from Chame to Khudar for lunch at Buddha Restaurant. I was enjoying the restuarant all to myself after all the other trekkers have left. I ordered a pot of milk tea, read my guide book and then read Into Thin Air. I was engrossed in the story when a familiar trekker sat on the same table. I met her 2 hrs ago on the trail. Soon I found out that that Korean girl was lugging behind. Man, they are really taking a long time!!!
The Korean girl arrived with a limping leg, it doesn't look good. I was thinking to myself :
"Do I want to wait for her?"
She looks like she's struggling and probably needed some help. FInally, I decided to stay and walk with them to Pisang. Since the terrain is gentle, I can even help carry some of her load. I remind myself that I'm a disciple and I need to exhibit the quality of a disciple wherever I go. I end up having a 2.5 hrs lunch break at Buddha Restaurant.
I try to offer to carry her smaller bag which she is carrying in front of her. She prefer to carry it herself. Thankfully, the trail now gets really level but she's still struggling a little. Off course, the slight headache gets in her way.
We came to a stream and stop to refill our water. I offer a 2nd time to carry her bag and she declined again. Citing reasons that she doesn't want to burden others and that I am sceptical of altitude sickness too.
In my prideful mind, I thought this is really a walk in the park. How could altitude sickness strike me? I just trek at an elevation of 5200m, you know? But I was reminded that I need to be humble as God opposed the proud. Sekali, next day I ganna AMS at 3700m, that would be malu man.
6 APR '07 - 8DC
Lower Pisang->Upper Pisang->Ngawa
We agree to set off together. After hearing that Shanti and I will be attempting the upper route, the Korean girl couldn't help but wants to join us too. For her, companions is as important as completing the Circuit.
1 hr into the upper route, I arrived at the double bridge. I decided to stop for the girls. While I was spacing out and singing to myself, I suddenly think of my money bag. To my horror, I recalled placing them under the pillow. Assuming that the girls will arrived any minute, I left my bag (lest my wallet) and make a dash back to Maya Hotel at Lower Pisang. I was joggin and 2 mins later I bump into my Korean friend and explains the situation to her. I'm so glad that she'll be looking after my bag, which is just as important to me.
In my anxiousness, I didn't notice that I've been ascending. As soon as I spot the pond, I'm sure I've mistakenly gotten on the upper route. I was angry at myself for making careless mistake one after another. As I huff and puff, I pray to God that my money bag would remain intact in the room.
Arriving at Maya GH, I went straight to my room, opened up the door and found my money bag underneath the pillow. I promise myself I'll never do that again. The reason why I have the habit of placing my wallet and moneybag under the pillow is that I imagine some thieves would enter my room while I am asleep and take them away. Come to think of it, it's quite dumb of me to do that. I'm such a light sleeper, there's little chance that I'll not be awaken by intruders.
Today was quite a test of my patience. I find my Korean friend taking too long a time to walk Yet I felt obligated to wait for her. She's alone and struggling with her load.
I waited 30 mins for her at 1 of the rest stop and she's still not in sight. I got a little worried and stated backtracking a little, hoping that she'll popped out anytime. After waiting for another 10mins, I decide to walk until I see her.. I couldn't just leave her alone. I was worried she might get an injury or something.
When I met her, she was resting and looked exhausted. This time, I was quite insistent on carrying her bag.
From afar, Ghawal looks like some village of another century. Almost medieval. My first thought was: "Would there be lodges in a Tibetan village like this?"
The lodges here are far more basic, I believe, is due to the remoteness. I was trying to look for a lodge minus the trekkers I met in the previous 2 lodges, though I don't mind making new friends.
I placed my bet on Hotel Shanti. I like the lodge for the friendly and helpful lady. And the food was better than I imagined. I would recommend this place to anybody staying in Ngawal.
We spent the evening huddling in front of the stove. Watching them prepare and cook my veg fried macaroni increases my appetite greatly. I tasted as good as it looks.
7th APR '07
Ngawal->Braga->Manang
First thing in the morning, I run thru the menu in my mind. As the menu is more or less standandise thruout the trek. it doesn't take long for one to memorise them. Lazing in my sleeping bag, I've made up my mind to have noodle soup for breakfast.
There is no one in the kitchen, so I went to check if the kettle on the stove is boiling or not. I waited patiently for the water to boil and make my instant coffee.
My Korean friend ask me to go ahead and so I did. After packing and paying for my food and lodging, I left Hotel Shanti at 0900hrs.
I enjoy my stay here. Almost like a homestay, we stayed in the kitchen where most of the activities are held. We keep warm near the stove, saw our food cooked on the stove. Saw the family preparing DB and eating together as a family. Finally, after dinner, entertainment was a funny Bollywood movie.
Recalling the description of the bakery in Braga, I stepped up my pace and imagine myself having nice Cinnamon roll and sipping nice coffee under the sun.
I'm reading the true account of a 1996 infamous Everest disaster, written by Jon Krakuer. He was part of the expedition as a client. He survived the storm to tell his story. 11 died.
In Manang, you can find products and services parallel to that of Thamel but it is 2-4times more expensive. 'shopping centres' with merchandise from toilet paper to Sony MS. And there are cinemas too. I couldn't resist the temptation to watch the movie based on the same book that I'm currently engrossed in- Into Thin Air.
For 100 rs (2.2sing), I must say it is quite value for money. WIth a fire place, the atmosphere is rather comfortable and warm.
The book beats the movie anytime. There's just to much details missing in the movie, though some attempts were made to bring some background to the characters and the story, but were insubstantial.
I was especially moved and to a much degree disturbed at the last conversation that the celebrated NZ guide Rob Hall had with his wife via walkie talkie and satellite phone.
One couldn't help but wonder for what reason did these great men and women died for? As what Jon mentioned, climbing Everest is a mystery, and for most part-illogical.
As I lay on my bed in Manang, my thoughts replayed footage of the movie. There was a great sense of sadness. At the same time, I fear that 1 day, trekking will be insufficient to quench my thirst for adventure, and that I'll take up mountaineering eventually (and inevitably). I fear that climbing might become the centre of my life and become the purpose of my existence.
8th APR '07
Manang-> Yak Karka
I thing I like about Manang is the numerous bakery that serve fresh bakeries. Because so many people make Manang a base for acclimatization, you can be sure that these hungry and bored trekkers patronises the bakeries.
I remember that I need to get 3 items from the supermarket in Yeti Hotel- Water bottles for crossing the pass, AAA size batteries to power my headlamp and MP3 player, Johnson baby powder. Thorong La GH charges 50 rs/hr for charging batteries. Buying fresh batteries saves me 150.
I decide to travel with my fellow citizen today. As normal, they left 1.5hrs later than they intended. Which is ok for me. I get up, sleep, have breakfast and set off anytime I like. I can walk alone or with anyone that I like.
I made a few conversation with Loh. However, he couldn't keep up with his breath going upslope. Our conversation was then subjected to the terrain.
Ming Yuan was the most experience trekker among the 4. We exchange experience on trekking. By and large, I am more experience that he is, with the exception of Kalimanjaro. When I mention Tahan to him, he expressed interest.
One of our member was not happy with us. He accuses the rest of the guys for not waiting on him, me included I presumed. After telling us off, he walked past us and went straight ahead. I thought :"Hey, what's that!" Maybe it is because I've just got acquainted with them and I didn't understand their trekking culture. As for me, I've been trekking alone and I feel I have absolute right to trek at my own pace. I applied the same rules to others. They don't have to follow my pace. I decided to back out from the group, just to give space for him and for myself to stomach the scolding.
Food
I am really pleased with my lunch and dinner. It is amazing what they could churn out from the kitchen at this remote and elevated place. Menu was creative. Food was delicious and bakeries are unbelievable. I love the chocolate cake. And I think I'm going to try the apple crumble tomorrow.
Last night, I saw shooting stars while praying. I just witness another 2 shooting stars. It was a special time for me and God. The shooting stars are, to me, like an acknowlegdement from GOd that he heard my prayer and he is pleased being with me.
9th APR '07
Yak Kharka->Thorong Phedi
0600hrs- I was awake but countinue to laze in my sleeping bag and listen to music on my player.
My apple crumble breakfast didn't work out, so I opt for chocolate pancake. At this elevation, everything is expensive. It is almost impossible to get a meal below 200rs.
My companion left at 0840hrs. I could see their departure from the window of the dining hall.
0945hrs, I was on the road alone again. It wasn't sunny like the previous morning. I was apprehensive if I should replace my jungle hat for my fleece hat. At some point, it snow lightly.
1000hrs. There's a stream crossing and the trail drops 150m, and then climb another 200m. I met them at the rest point soon after the 200m hard climb. I continue on.
A check with my guidebook reveals that I am at most 45mins away from the lodge. So I pressed on after hydrating myself.
10mins has past and I spot the lodge. I am so proud of my pace. I am 30mins before the estimatied walking time.
This morning before I left Gangapurna GH at Yak Kharka, the owner gave me a card of his brother's lodge in Thorong Phedi. It is call Hotel New Phedi. I remember that Ming had very good DB at Gangapurna. I am hoping that HNP has the same nice DB.
I notice that many ppl are packing and getting ready to go to High Camp, which in my opinion is not a sensible acclimatization stretegy due to a difference of 1000m ascend from Yak Kharka. After talking to the Jewish girl, I learned that she's adviced by their guide to do a trial walk to High Camp. Everyone seems to be doing it and I was persuaded
To my surprise and delight, I've made it to High Camp in 40mins! Weather was bad though. The snow gets heavier by the hours.
High Camp has 2 nice lodges . Not wonder so many people are tempted to stay here despite the acclimatization advice against it (altitude talk in Manang).
I had a pleasant evening talking to the singaporeans. I even say it's a good bonding time. Our conversation revolves around our national topic-food. Chong Pang Nasi Lemak has the best chicken wings accompanied by the best sambal. Not to be miss is the claypot from Sembawang. As well as Satay Club. I remember I prayed to God for good relationship with them. I'm thankful that God answers them by creating the opportunity.
10th APR ' 07 -
-3DC
Thorong Phedi->High Camp->Thorong La->Muktinath
Today is the big day for everyone doing the ACT. All the previous days of acclimatizing was for this big day. I felt blessed that for the past 10 days, I've been eating and sleeping well with no signs of AMS.
Breakfast was set at 0430hrs. And I had a big one too. Tuna sandwich that comes with chips. On top of that a small pot of milk tea (about 1 L). On most occasion, I enjoy having tea in pot but not this morning. I saw everyone leaving for the Pass and I get anxious to get going too. So I kind of force the milk tea down my throat for hydration.
I suppose I'm the last person to leave the lodge for the pass. At 0550hrs, there's enough light to trek without headlamp. With a heavy breakfast and a dislike for early morning treks (especially those for catching sunrise), I struggle to catch my breath.
Slowly and steadily, I completed the steepest ascent for the day. I made good time in 40mins! That is the same timing as yesterday trial ascent without load.
Since I brought my crampon, I decided to put them on. I actually feels great-much more grip walking on snow and even better on ice. But ice is rare on the trek.
I keep to my stretegy- 1 hr walk, 5-10mins rest. Coincidently, my 1 hrs of walk match with the time I took to get from 1 teahouse to the other. I met the Singaporeans at Yakawakang, between High Camp and Thorong La.
I was reminded of Tibet. Mountains fully covered with snow. Tracks covered with snow. However, because the trail is walked by trekkers daily, it is easy to walk on the already trampled on snow trails. Naturally, it's easy to find the route too.Gaiters are not necessary. If snow level is high, the pass would have been shut already.
At the 3rd break, I met Deepak and I offer him my water.
I was really delighted to see the pass 5 mins after my 3rd break. I want to check the elevation and temperature but realise my watch is missing from the strap that I strapped it on to. At least I'm sure I lost my watch in the last 10 mins. After putting down my bag, I walk back to the 3rd rest point. With my eyes scanning the snow path as I made my way. I ask every trekker that I past if they've chanced on my watch. Finally a westerner told me he saw someone picking up my watch. I thank him and walked on to find the guide who picked up my watch.
Lost and found
I met the guide who picked up my watch but I was surprise by his response. He actually asked for a fee. Despite the way he said "as you wish". I sensed his intention of wanted a fee for returning my watch.
Honestly, I didn't expect this to come from a Nepali. I have far better impression of these people of the mountain. If I ever pick up someone's wallet, I would returned it to a police station or the owner personally if possible. I would not have thought of asking a for a fee for returning what is due him.
300rs (6-7sing) for returning what is mine. My mood was somewhat affected by the incident. Not so much of the money, but more of the changing attitudes in the Nepali. But those are just my personal observation and this could be an isolated case.
Anyway, it was suppose to be a happy and celebration, after 10 days of trekking. I try to put my unhappiness aside and shift my focus to this memorable moment.
My friends arrived. I congrajulate them with a hug. Some of them are first time trekkers. First time walking for 10 days, first time experiencing snow, first time experiencing -3DC. First time standing at an elevation of 5414m. On top of that, 2 of them had gotten the great news that they've cleared their much feared exams. They are literally on cloud nine now. I felt really happy for them.
Descent
I don't like this part. 3 hrs of continuous descent to Muktinath. 1500m descent to be exact. Nearing the last 30mins, my toes are sore. I am expecting blisters.
Ranipurna was the place and not Muktinath. My first few attempts to get a room was unsuccessful. Hotel Nightingale has room with hot shower in the common bathroom.
Most of the lodges claims to offer 24hrs hot shower but really how many lodge delivery what they claim are doubtful. I waited almost 1.5hrs for the shower and decided to give up. I asked for a pail of boiled water instead.
I wouldn't recommend Hotel Nightingale to anybody. Service and food are poor.
11th APR '07
Muktinath->Eklaibhuti (or Kegbeni)->Jomsom
Today's the 11th day of my trek and I am getting bored. I suppose I'll end my trek before 17th and stay a couple of days in Pokhara. I also want to get back to Kathmandu to visit the HOPE school. I believe I'll go to Delhi to join them for Sunday service on 22nd apr. Then spendtime with the Delhi brothers and finally meet Fang in Delhi on the 26th apr.
I am still thinking if I can get Fang to bring anything from home. There's not much things except maybe a bottle of Kimbal or Sin Sin garlic chilli sauce.
I couldn't find any motivation to extend my trek to ABC. I was hoping that I could join the Singapoeans and travel with them. I spend the first 1.5hrs of my time trying to follow a particular footprint. It was a sandals footprint and because sandals are rarely worn by trekers, it becomes easy to spot. When I arrived at Nirvana Hotel, I gave up. I think they might have stayed in Ranipurna or Jharlot due to injury or fatigue or something.The Thorong La day was a hard day for all.
At Khingar, there's a junction-one leads to Jomsom, the other to Kegbeni. I forget about the junction and when I got there. I just follow the trekker ahead of me, and it leads me to Jomsom via Eklaibhuti.
God must have planned for me to take that trail. I met the Singaporeans there. Otherwise, I would have spent the night at Kegbeni.
The trail leading to Jomsom is winding. I went looking for Windy Valley Hotel. We called it 狂风谷.
I decided from today onwards to travel with my friends. According to plans, we'll arrived at Pokhara on 16th Apr.
TO BE CONT....
16th APR '07
Ghorepani->Ulleri->Birethanti->Naya Pul
Almost, I wanted to make an effort to climb Poonhill for the 3rd time. No to prove anything, but just so that I can share the experience with my mates.
0500hrs. I find myself to tired to get out of bed. Even the lure of a 360 degree paranomic view from Poonhill can't do the trick. Next thing I know, I was 0700hrs. Time to order breakfast.
They come back 10mins after I get to the dining hall. I flipped thru Ming Yuan's camera and I saw a different view from Poonhill. It was cloudy. Not that it was not beautiful, just different. Today's going to be a long day, according to my guidebook. It will take us 6 hrs to get to Nayapul.
Before setting off from Ghorepani, I remember vaguely that lunch would be 3.5hrs away, at Tikha Dungha. I was happy to arrive at Ulleri cause the next town would be it. I was disappointed. Ulleri is such a big town, I took me 1.5hrs to get from 1 end to the other, It was over 3000 steps of continuous steps down. Thinking back, I went up this flight of steps with Charmaine. How did we manage that? I don't know man?!!
Coming to 1.5hrs of descend, Benny Ming Yuan and I call for another break. At the same time, we're wondering where would Loh and Chim be. They were out of out sight for the past 2.5hrs. The last we saw they, they were setting up a new chess game. My guess was that they got stuck in the game and hence the delay. Ming was less optimistic, he thought Loh might have difficulty negotiating 3000ste with a fully loaded pack. In the midst of all the speculation, they appeared. It was 30mins more to lunch place.
It started to rain at 1230hrs. At the lowhill region,it is normal to rain daily. We hope the rain will stop on time for us to continue after we Dhal Bhat-ed.
According to the guidebook. Nayapul is 3h away. Loh was getting anxious to catch the last bus at 170hrs ( I don;t believe it ends so early). We left at 1400hrs, making a dash to Nayapul, the gateway to steaks at Pokhara.
Something in me wanted to spent the last stretch of the trek enjoying instead of rushing. On the other hand, I have no intention to put up an unnecessary resistance to Loh's burning desire to get to Pokhara by tonight. Ming shares my sentiment. We neither hasten our pace nor did we slow down.
WE got Lucky, by 1630hrs we hopped on the supposed last bus to Pokhara. I set on the bus, quietly enjoy the last few moments of light on the mountain, thinking when will it be the next time I set on foot on the mountains.
Hotel Singapore
As the first hotel we went to is "away from the action'.We went back to the main street looking for another. Hotel Singapore appears and soon we found our taxi rolling to it's entrance.
Dining
One of our member had something against the service provided by restaurants (in general)
In Nepal, the waiter serves the dishes, then comes the cutlery. According to him,anyone who serves dishes without first serving the cutlery has severely and gravely broken the international protocol of fine dining.
I pity the guy serving us at the table. We're a tough bunch of people to serve. Waiting is certainly not in our dictionary. Every request must be fulfilled with 57.5 seconds. And you are right, Nepalis time are elastic. Just a minute can exactly means 1 hr.
Kathmandu->Besisahar->BhulBhule
0700hrs-1230hrs. Alight at Tibet GH. 500rs
For the first 4 hrs journey, it is the same road leading to Pokhara. The bus turns into a different direction after crossing the big bridge that runs across Trisuli River.
After doing some calculation, I realise that I would have to work on a rather tight budget of 17,000rs for 24 days. I made a trip to the local bank hoping to be able to change my USD into Nepali rupees. No luck though. Then I went to one of the Western Union. To my delight, they do. The first offer was 36rs for 1 USD. I was willing to part my dollar for 65rs, knowing that I don't the have much of any option in a small town like this.
Now I feel safer. as a general guide, the higher you go, the higher the price of food and accommodation.
Besisahar->BhulBhule. 1hr. 35rs on local bus(runs every hour till 1700hrs).
Unmentioned in the guide book, you can hopped on a local bus that goes as far as BhulBhule. It stops in front of Thorong La GH. It pays to look like a local, unknowing to the bus conductor, I answer BhulBhule and handed a50 rs note and I was given a 15 rs change. You can walk if you want. It'll take 2-2.5hrs.
Thorong La GH looks busy with all the buses terminating here. Also, the nearby junction to the bridge makes it potentially noisy. I opted to cross the bridge to check out Manang GH. I saw the sign "Manaslu GH" and walk past it, thinking that Manang GH could be beyond that. I was wrong, there isn't any establishment beyond Manaslu.
BhulBhule
Manang GH is closed. I ended up at Hotel Arjun and Garden Restaurant. I was the only guest. There's a nice garden and interesting hot shower facilities that runs on gas. Rooms are basic but clean.
4 boys were running around and I starts to interact with them. Typical boys horsing around, getting a little physical. It is easy for Nepali to remember my name as the cartoon series Tom and Jerry is popular with the kids. Jerry also sounds like a Nepali food, sort of like a desert that is really sweet.
Haircut
If you are Asian and wants like to look like a local, I recommend you try having a haircut at a local barber. It works for me.
This morning the bus conductor of micro bus (passenger van) spoke to me in Nepali.Also the bus conductor on the local bus. The GH guy also spoke to me first in Nepali.
2 APR 2007
BhulBhule->Bahundanda->Jagat
0730hrs-Crawled out of bed. Strange. Somehow still want to sleep more. By 0830hrs, I was ready to go. 60minutes later, I arrived at NGADI. If I have known, i would have made this 60 mins walk yesterday. I like the field of crops that surrounds the GH.
120min. Arrived at Bahundanda. I was hungry. Entice by a signboard that says: "60 steps more and you wouldn't regret". True enough, I did not regret. After I ordered my chicken burger with ships,a western girl walk out to the dining area.I started a conversation with her.
She was from Slovakia and had only a guide with her. When my tea come, I moved over to sit at her table.She also did the Ghorepani Loop prior to ACT just like me! Except that she did an extension up to Chomrong. We both agree that it was our favourite town in this region.
I was getting ready to start my afternoon trek and the rain suddenly started. I am not in favour of walking in the rain. Furthermore, I got time. So I stayed and continue to chat with the Slovakian. We had a wonderful time talking about movies, books and India.
1430hrs. The rain stopped, it is time to go. I miscalculated the walking hours. It was supposed to be 3.5hrs. I stepped up my pace, just in case it took more than 3hrs 45mins to get to Jagat. I remember Ramesh's advice me not to walk in the dark...
Saturday afternoon. Ramesh sent me from Shammi's place to my hotel. Before he left, he gave me a few advice on trekking alone. He sounded concerned. I really appreciate him. Also, I promise myself that I will not put myself in an unnecessary dangerous position or situation. I have my family and friends waiting for me to return home safely. The other advice Ramesh gave me is to stay in towns with more GH. I heeded his advice and that's why I planned to stop over at Jagat.
Ambitious Singaporean
20 mins before reaching Jagat. I saw a group of trekkers ahead. On a closer look, I somehow have this feeling that they could be Singaporean. Soon I met my fellow Singaporean. I thought: "Yeah, I've got company" Not really though.
They have 16 days and they were planning to do the ACT and ABC. I thought doing the Circuit in 16 days is tight already. I guess many people had already advice them against their plans but I suppose they assume they could manage. I hope they don't push to hard and ended up having to be heli-evacuate out of the mountain. Honestly, I worried for them. Young Singapore men (I was once like them, I probably still is), we felt like we can do everything that our mind can perceived.
1800hrs, I was glad I made it here before the sun sets in 30mins. The Singaporeans wanted to press on to Chamje, 1 hr at least. We bid goodbye, good luck to them.
I took a walk around Jagat. There were so many tourist. This looks more like a major trekking route. Last night, I was the only guest in my GH. Tonight same too.
Passover
I saw the 4 Israelites men and started talking to them. Incidentally, today is the Passover. It is a major celebration for the Jews. Jesus and his disciples had the Last Supper on Passover too.
Levi 23:4-8
Numbers 9:1-14
Exodus 12
Egypt's refusal to let go of the Israelite angered God.The last plague God inflicted on the Egyptian was the killing of every first born in the land of Egypt with the exception of the Israelites. God instructed them to sacrifice lamb and smear the blood on the top and the side of their house. When God's destroyer come, they will 'passover' the Israelites (because of the blood on the house) and spare the killing of the first born as promise by God. See Prince of Egypt. It has a superb illustrated explanation of the Passover.
The Israelite who I spoke to explain a little to me. He said when their forefathers got out of Egypt, they were commanded by God to celebrate the Passover. And since today is the Passover, the 4 men would have some sort of celebration right here in Jagat. I was reminded that the Israelites are still obeying this millennium old command from God. And that THEIR forefathers were the people that God save from their slavery in Egypt.
We agree to walk together tomorrow, I would like to know more about their life and religion.
3rd APR '07-18 DC
Jagat->Tal
0715hrs. Got out of bed. I think I'll not make it on time to join the Israelites at 0800hrs. After placing order for my breakfast, I went up to pack my bag.
0730hrs-They walked by my place and I told them I'll catch up with them in a while.
Started reading the book of Amos. At 0815hrs I hit the road again.
The morning trek was hot as it was almost cloudless. I cross a couple of long suspended bridge, there are at least 300m long. My first chat with a trekker was a German, probably in his 40's. I think he's with the German camping group that I saw last night.
Half an hour later, I met a Korean girl. She spotted a short hairstyle, probably the first Korean woman I've seen with a hairstyle this short. We walked and chatted for awhile.
1015hrs. Finally caught up with the Israelites. They were taking a break in the shade. For men their age, I think they've walking pretty fast. They continued while I rested more. Before long, the Korean girl appears again. She started to complain about her load. It might be too much for her. I hope she make it or at least she'll find a porter on the way. I commended her for her command in English. She stayed and worked in NZ and Australia for a year. That helps her in her English.
For her, it is going to be a 1.5 year of travel. Actually, I don't understand why someone would like to be on the road for such a long time. I am 4 months away from home but I kept thinking about home all the time.
Alone or with a companion
I remember that last night, the Israelite man ask me if I like trekking alone or with a companion. That is a difficult question to answer.
Trekking alone gives me absolute freedom. I can wake up anytime, rest anytime, take long break if I want, or change my plans instantaneously. Most importantly, I can walk at my own pace, which could make a big difference to how you feel physically.
Walking at my own pace seems to be the most energy efficient. You walk according to how your body feels. Walking at some one's pace is different-You have to push yourself to catch up with someone faster than you; Stopping to wait for others could just be equally exhausting.
Trekking with a companion has the obvious benefit of a buddy system. There's someone to watch your back. You can make conversation. In the event of an accident or emergency, you've a partner to help you.
So, do I like to trek solo? It's is hard to tell, we'll see. I might find a good companion on the way.
Tal
I think I'm getting use to DB. Before I arrive at Tal, I've already made up my mind on DB for lunch.
I've wanted to lunch with my Israelites friend but 2 of them were some distance away. I felt a bit awkward to stick around uninvited, so I walked on. Looking for a place with a familiar name. I saw Potala GH and made a turn into the porch.
When I am done with DB, 4 westerner men came into the dining around to place order for lunch. From their attire, I can tell that they are going to the nearby waterfall. We talked and they asked why am I not staying in Tal. I paused for a while.
The entrance to Tal is grand. Set in a valley, Tal looks charming. With river running and mountains in the background. I can see a towering waterfall that is 50m high.
I went to take a better look at the waterfall. It really looks inviting. I counted that if I stay in Tal, I need 7 hrs to get to Chame. That's reasonable. So I change my plans and stayed in Tal instead of Barapani.
The water was too cold to sit under the running water. My next hour was spent sitting on the rock, sunbathing. I sung songs to God, I had a great devotional time.
4 APR '07
Tal->Chame
Knowing that today will be a 7hrs walk, I made an effort to wake up earlier.
I try not to eat eggs daily but today, I gave in to my desire to eat 2 omellete. I saw Bekh having his omelette sandwhiched between Tibetan bread, so I wanted to try that too.
Yesterday, an Australian couple checked into Potala GH too. They are probably in their 50's. They are really nice people. She always made an effort to thank the Nepali for their service, saying them in Nepali. When she realised that I'm alone in the dining hall, she invited me to join her and her husband. What a nice gesture I thought.
We share why we like trekking. Nepal's landscape is truly captivating. If only Singapore possessed 5% of the beauty and nature. She shared that though was struggling with the terrain, trekking actually gives her a peace of mind.
I spent most of the day trekking on my own. By 1130hrs, I've arrived at Danaque, 30mins earlier that I planned. Trekkers Inn is closed, as told by Potala GH. The owner has return to Kathmandu. The not so nice DB now cost 200rs.
1300hrs. On the road again. Chame is 3 hrs away at least.
After Bharatani, I met a Japanese woman. Her husband is Thai and they are residing in Bangkok.
I almost went by the wrong way. Luciky the Japanese woman's guide showes me the correct way to the next town, Bagarchap. Thank God, I would have gone on a long way.
At Koto Qupar, I was asked to sign in at a Police CHeckpoint. I was surprise to see the names of the 4 Singaporeans. I imagine them to be beyond CHame. They started their day at Dharapani, 2 hrs ahead of Tal.
10mins later, I meet them at a stream, melting ice and collecting the water. They wanted to stop at Chame too. I got company.
5th APR '07 - 12DC
Chame->Lower Pisang
I felt a bit guilty yesterday. It was a long day for me and I was trying to stay on the schedule. I passed by 2 local woman. After exchange of Nameste, they asked if I had medication for cuts or abrasion. Without thinking twice, I answer coldly with a 'No'.
I read an article about local people seeking medical help from trekkers. Some of these medical seekers just want to get western medicine. They had the impression that there's something magical.
I felt guilty because I doubt her immediately. I could have assess her injury (if ther's any) before assuming that she's faking it. Furthermore, I am a certified first aider. I wish I could have done better. The Parable of the Good Samaritan (Luke 10:30-35). I am a disciple and I slipped the chance to help someone who might potentially be in need. So I repented today.
As usual, I was walking alone from Chame to Khudar for lunch at Buddha Restaurant. I was enjoying the restuarant all to myself after all the other trekkers have left. I ordered a pot of milk tea, read my guide book and then read Into Thin Air. I was engrossed in the story when a familiar trekker sat on the same table. I met her 2 hrs ago on the trail. Soon I found out that that Korean girl was lugging behind. Man, they are really taking a long time!!!
The Korean girl arrived with a limping leg, it doesn't look good. I was thinking to myself :
"Do I want to wait for her?"
She looks like she's struggling and probably needed some help. FInally, I decided to stay and walk with them to Pisang. Since the terrain is gentle, I can even help carry some of her load. I remind myself that I'm a disciple and I need to exhibit the quality of a disciple wherever I go. I end up having a 2.5 hrs lunch break at Buddha Restaurant.
I try to offer to carry her smaller bag which she is carrying in front of her. She prefer to carry it herself. Thankfully, the trail now gets really level but she's still struggling a little. Off course, the slight headache gets in her way.
We came to a stream and stop to refill our water. I offer a 2nd time to carry her bag and she declined again. Citing reasons that she doesn't want to burden others and that I am sceptical of altitude sickness too.
In my prideful mind, I thought this is really a walk in the park. How could altitude sickness strike me? I just trek at an elevation of 5200m, you know? But I was reminded that I need to be humble as God opposed the proud. Sekali, next day I ganna AMS at 3700m, that would be malu man.
6 APR '07 - 8DC
Lower Pisang->Upper Pisang->Ngawa
We agree to set off together. After hearing that Shanti and I will be attempting the upper route, the Korean girl couldn't help but wants to join us too. For her, companions is as important as completing the Circuit.
1 hr into the upper route, I arrived at the double bridge. I decided to stop for the girls. While I was spacing out and singing to myself, I suddenly think of my money bag. To my horror, I recalled placing them under the pillow. Assuming that the girls will arrived any minute, I left my bag (lest my wallet) and make a dash back to Maya Hotel at Lower Pisang. I was joggin and 2 mins later I bump into my Korean friend and explains the situation to her. I'm so glad that she'll be looking after my bag, which is just as important to me.
In my anxiousness, I didn't notice that I've been ascending. As soon as I spot the pond, I'm sure I've mistakenly gotten on the upper route. I was angry at myself for making careless mistake one after another. As I huff and puff, I pray to God that my money bag would remain intact in the room.
Arriving at Maya GH, I went straight to my room, opened up the door and found my money bag underneath the pillow. I promise myself I'll never do that again. The reason why I have the habit of placing my wallet and moneybag under the pillow is that I imagine some thieves would enter my room while I am asleep and take them away. Come to think of it, it's quite dumb of me to do that. I'm such a light sleeper, there's little chance that I'll not be awaken by intruders.
Today was quite a test of my patience. I find my Korean friend taking too long a time to walk Yet I felt obligated to wait for her. She's alone and struggling with her load.
I waited 30 mins for her at 1 of the rest stop and she's still not in sight. I got a little worried and stated backtracking a little, hoping that she'll popped out anytime. After waiting for another 10mins, I decide to walk until I see her.. I couldn't just leave her alone. I was worried she might get an injury or something.
When I met her, she was resting and looked exhausted. This time, I was quite insistent on carrying her bag.
From afar, Ghawal looks like some village of another century. Almost medieval. My first thought was: "Would there be lodges in a Tibetan village like this?"
The lodges here are far more basic, I believe, is due to the remoteness. I was trying to look for a lodge minus the trekkers I met in the previous 2 lodges, though I don't mind making new friends.
I placed my bet on Hotel Shanti. I like the lodge for the friendly and helpful lady. And the food was better than I imagined. I would recommend this place to anybody staying in Ngawal.
We spent the evening huddling in front of the stove. Watching them prepare and cook my veg fried macaroni increases my appetite greatly. I tasted as good as it looks.
7th APR '07
Ngawal->Braga->Manang
First thing in the morning, I run thru the menu in my mind. As the menu is more or less standandise thruout the trek. it doesn't take long for one to memorise them. Lazing in my sleeping bag, I've made up my mind to have noodle soup for breakfast.
There is no one in the kitchen, so I went to check if the kettle on the stove is boiling or not. I waited patiently for the water to boil and make my instant coffee.
My Korean friend ask me to go ahead and so I did. After packing and paying for my food and lodging, I left Hotel Shanti at 0900hrs.
I enjoy my stay here. Almost like a homestay, we stayed in the kitchen where most of the activities are held. We keep warm near the stove, saw our food cooked on the stove. Saw the family preparing DB and eating together as a family. Finally, after dinner, entertainment was a funny Bollywood movie.
Recalling the description of the bakery in Braga, I stepped up my pace and imagine myself having nice Cinnamon roll and sipping nice coffee under the sun.
I'm reading the true account of a 1996 infamous Everest disaster, written by Jon Krakuer. He was part of the expedition as a client. He survived the storm to tell his story. 11 died.
In Manang, you can find products and services parallel to that of Thamel but it is 2-4times more expensive. 'shopping centres' with merchandise from toilet paper to Sony MS. And there are cinemas too. I couldn't resist the temptation to watch the movie based on the same book that I'm currently engrossed in- Into Thin Air.
For 100 rs (2.2sing), I must say it is quite value for money. WIth a fire place, the atmosphere is rather comfortable and warm.
The book beats the movie anytime. There's just to much details missing in the movie, though some attempts were made to bring some background to the characters and the story, but were insubstantial.
I was especially moved and to a much degree disturbed at the last conversation that the celebrated NZ guide Rob Hall had with his wife via walkie talkie and satellite phone.
One couldn't help but wonder for what reason did these great men and women died for? As what Jon mentioned, climbing Everest is a mystery, and for most part-illogical.
As I lay on my bed in Manang, my thoughts replayed footage of the movie. There was a great sense of sadness. At the same time, I fear that 1 day, trekking will be insufficient to quench my thirst for adventure, and that I'll take up mountaineering eventually (and inevitably). I fear that climbing might become the centre of my life and become the purpose of my existence.
8th APR '07
Manang-> Yak Karka
I thing I like about Manang is the numerous bakery that serve fresh bakeries. Because so many people make Manang a base for acclimatization, you can be sure that these hungry and bored trekkers patronises the bakeries.
I remember that I need to get 3 items from the supermarket in Yeti Hotel- Water bottles for crossing the pass, AAA size batteries to power my headlamp and MP3 player, Johnson baby powder. Thorong La GH charges 50 rs/hr for charging batteries. Buying fresh batteries saves me 150.
I decide to travel with my fellow citizen today. As normal, they left 1.5hrs later than they intended. Which is ok for me. I get up, sleep, have breakfast and set off anytime I like. I can walk alone or with anyone that I like.
I made a few conversation with Loh. However, he couldn't keep up with his breath going upslope. Our conversation was then subjected to the terrain.
Ming Yuan was the most experience trekker among the 4. We exchange experience on trekking. By and large, I am more experience that he is, with the exception of Kalimanjaro. When I mention Tahan to him, he expressed interest.
One of our member was not happy with us. He accuses the rest of the guys for not waiting on him, me included I presumed. After telling us off, he walked past us and went straight ahead. I thought :"Hey, what's that!" Maybe it is because I've just got acquainted with them and I didn't understand their trekking culture. As for me, I've been trekking alone and I feel I have absolute right to trek at my own pace. I applied the same rules to others. They don't have to follow my pace. I decided to back out from the group, just to give space for him and for myself to stomach the scolding.
Food
I am really pleased with my lunch and dinner. It is amazing what they could churn out from the kitchen at this remote and elevated place. Menu was creative. Food was delicious and bakeries are unbelievable. I love the chocolate cake. And I think I'm going to try the apple crumble tomorrow.
Last night, I saw shooting stars while praying. I just witness another 2 shooting stars. It was a special time for me and God. The shooting stars are, to me, like an acknowlegdement from GOd that he heard my prayer and he is pleased being with me.
9th APR '07
Yak Kharka->Thorong Phedi
0600hrs- I was awake but countinue to laze in my sleeping bag and listen to music on my player.
My apple crumble breakfast didn't work out, so I opt for chocolate pancake. At this elevation, everything is expensive. It is almost impossible to get a meal below 200rs.
My companion left at 0840hrs. I could see their departure from the window of the dining hall.
0945hrs, I was on the road alone again. It wasn't sunny like the previous morning. I was apprehensive if I should replace my jungle hat for my fleece hat. At some point, it snow lightly.
1000hrs. There's a stream crossing and the trail drops 150m, and then climb another 200m. I met them at the rest point soon after the 200m hard climb. I continue on.
A check with my guidebook reveals that I am at most 45mins away from the lodge. So I pressed on after hydrating myself.
10mins has past and I spot the lodge. I am so proud of my pace. I am 30mins before the estimatied walking time.
This morning before I left Gangapurna GH at Yak Kharka, the owner gave me a card of his brother's lodge in Thorong Phedi. It is call Hotel New Phedi. I remember that Ming had very good DB at Gangapurna. I am hoping that HNP has the same nice DB.
I notice that many ppl are packing and getting ready to go to High Camp, which in my opinion is not a sensible acclimatization stretegy due to a difference of 1000m ascend from Yak Kharka. After talking to the Jewish girl, I learned that she's adviced by their guide to do a trial walk to High Camp. Everyone seems to be doing it and I was persuaded
To my surprise and delight, I've made it to High Camp in 40mins! Weather was bad though. The snow gets heavier by the hours.
High Camp has 2 nice lodges . Not wonder so many people are tempted to stay here despite the acclimatization advice against it (altitude talk in Manang).
I had a pleasant evening talking to the singaporeans. I even say it's a good bonding time. Our conversation revolves around our national topic-food. Chong Pang Nasi Lemak has the best chicken wings accompanied by the best sambal. Not to be miss is the claypot from Sembawang. As well as Satay Club. I remember I prayed to God for good relationship with them. I'm thankful that God answers them by creating the opportunity.
10th APR ' 07 -
-3DC
Thorong Phedi->High Camp->Thorong La->Muktinath
Today is the big day for everyone doing the ACT. All the previous days of acclimatizing was for this big day. I felt blessed that for the past 10 days, I've been eating and sleeping well with no signs of AMS.
Breakfast was set at 0430hrs. And I had a big one too. Tuna sandwich that comes with chips. On top of that a small pot of milk tea (about 1 L). On most occasion, I enjoy having tea in pot but not this morning. I saw everyone leaving for the Pass and I get anxious to get going too. So I kind of force the milk tea down my throat for hydration.
I suppose I'm the last person to leave the lodge for the pass. At 0550hrs, there's enough light to trek without headlamp. With a heavy breakfast and a dislike for early morning treks (especially those for catching sunrise), I struggle to catch my breath.
Slowly and steadily, I completed the steepest ascent for the day. I made good time in 40mins! That is the same timing as yesterday trial ascent without load.
Since I brought my crampon, I decided to put them on. I actually feels great-much more grip walking on snow and even better on ice. But ice is rare on the trek.
I keep to my stretegy- 1 hr walk, 5-10mins rest. Coincidently, my 1 hrs of walk match with the time I took to get from 1 teahouse to the other. I met the Singaporeans at Yakawakang, between High Camp and Thorong La.
I was reminded of Tibet. Mountains fully covered with snow. Tracks covered with snow. However, because the trail is walked by trekkers daily, it is easy to walk on the already trampled on snow trails. Naturally, it's easy to find the route too.Gaiters are not necessary. If snow level is high, the pass would have been shut already.
At the 3rd break, I met Deepak and I offer him my water.
I was really delighted to see the pass 5 mins after my 3rd break. I want to check the elevation and temperature but realise my watch is missing from the strap that I strapped it on to. At least I'm sure I lost my watch in the last 10 mins. After putting down my bag, I walk back to the 3rd rest point. With my eyes scanning the snow path as I made my way. I ask every trekker that I past if they've chanced on my watch. Finally a westerner told me he saw someone picking up my watch. I thank him and walked on to find the guide who picked up my watch.
Lost and found
I met the guide who picked up my watch but I was surprise by his response. He actually asked for a fee. Despite the way he said "as you wish". I sensed his intention of wanted a fee for returning my watch.
Honestly, I didn't expect this to come from a Nepali. I have far better impression of these people of the mountain. If I ever pick up someone's wallet, I would returned it to a police station or the owner personally if possible. I would not have thought of asking a for a fee for returning what is due him.
300rs (6-7sing) for returning what is mine. My mood was somewhat affected by the incident. Not so much of the money, but more of the changing attitudes in the Nepali. But those are just my personal observation and this could be an isolated case.
Anyway, it was suppose to be a happy and celebration, after 10 days of trekking. I try to put my unhappiness aside and shift my focus to this memorable moment.
My friends arrived. I congrajulate them with a hug. Some of them are first time trekkers. First time walking for 10 days, first time experiencing snow, first time experiencing -3DC. First time standing at an elevation of 5414m. On top of that, 2 of them had gotten the great news that they've cleared their much feared exams. They are literally on cloud nine now. I felt really happy for them.
Descent
I don't like this part. 3 hrs of continuous descent to Muktinath. 1500m descent to be exact. Nearing the last 30mins, my toes are sore. I am expecting blisters.
Ranipurna was the place and not Muktinath. My first few attempts to get a room was unsuccessful. Hotel Nightingale has room with hot shower in the common bathroom.
Most of the lodges claims to offer 24hrs hot shower but really how many lodge delivery what they claim are doubtful. I waited almost 1.5hrs for the shower and decided to give up. I asked for a pail of boiled water instead.
I wouldn't recommend Hotel Nightingale to anybody. Service and food are poor.
11th APR '07
Muktinath->Eklaibhuti (or Kegbeni)->Jomsom
Today's the 11th day of my trek and I am getting bored. I suppose I'll end my trek before 17th and stay a couple of days in Pokhara. I also want to get back to Kathmandu to visit the HOPE school. I believe I'll go to Delhi to join them for Sunday service on 22nd apr. Then spendtime with the Delhi brothers and finally meet Fang in Delhi on the 26th apr.
I am still thinking if I can get Fang to bring anything from home. There's not much things except maybe a bottle of Kimbal or Sin Sin garlic chilli sauce.
I couldn't find any motivation to extend my trek to ABC. I was hoping that I could join the Singapoeans and travel with them. I spend the first 1.5hrs of my time trying to follow a particular footprint. It was a sandals footprint and because sandals are rarely worn by trekers, it becomes easy to spot. When I arrived at Nirvana Hotel, I gave up. I think they might have stayed in Ranipurna or Jharlot due to injury or fatigue or something.The Thorong La day was a hard day for all.
At Khingar, there's a junction-one leads to Jomsom, the other to Kegbeni. I forget about the junction and when I got there. I just follow the trekker ahead of me, and it leads me to Jomsom via Eklaibhuti.
God must have planned for me to take that trail. I met the Singaporeans there. Otherwise, I would have spent the night at Kegbeni.
The trail leading to Jomsom is winding. I went looking for Windy Valley Hotel. We called it 狂风谷.
I decided from today onwards to travel with my friends. According to plans, we'll arrived at Pokhara on 16th Apr.
TO BE CONT....
16th APR '07
Ghorepani->Ulleri->Birethanti->Naya Pul
Almost, I wanted to make an effort to climb Poonhill for the 3rd time. No to prove anything, but just so that I can share the experience with my mates.
0500hrs. I find myself to tired to get out of bed. Even the lure of a 360 degree paranomic view from Poonhill can't do the trick. Next thing I know, I was 0700hrs. Time to order breakfast.
They come back 10mins after I get to the dining hall. I flipped thru Ming Yuan's camera and I saw a different view from Poonhill. It was cloudy. Not that it was not beautiful, just different. Today's going to be a long day, according to my guidebook. It will take us 6 hrs to get to Nayapul.
Before setting off from Ghorepani, I remember vaguely that lunch would be 3.5hrs away, at Tikha Dungha. I was happy to arrive at Ulleri cause the next town would be it. I was disappointed. Ulleri is such a big town, I took me 1.5hrs to get from 1 end to the other, It was over 3000 steps of continuous steps down. Thinking back, I went up this flight of steps with Charmaine. How did we manage that? I don't know man?!!
Coming to 1.5hrs of descend, Benny Ming Yuan and I call for another break. At the same time, we're wondering where would Loh and Chim be. They were out of out sight for the past 2.5hrs. The last we saw they, they were setting up a new chess game. My guess was that they got stuck in the game and hence the delay. Ming was less optimistic, he thought Loh might have difficulty negotiating 3000ste with a fully loaded pack. In the midst of all the speculation, they appeared. It was 30mins more to lunch place.
It started to rain at 1230hrs. At the lowhill region,it is normal to rain daily. We hope the rain will stop on time for us to continue after we Dhal Bhat-ed.
According to the guidebook. Nayapul is 3h away. Loh was getting anxious to catch the last bus at 170hrs ( I don;t believe it ends so early). We left at 1400hrs, making a dash to Nayapul, the gateway to steaks at Pokhara.
Something in me wanted to spent the last stretch of the trek enjoying instead of rushing. On the other hand, I have no intention to put up an unnecessary resistance to Loh's burning desire to get to Pokhara by tonight. Ming shares my sentiment. We neither hasten our pace nor did we slow down.
WE got Lucky, by 1630hrs we hopped on the supposed last bus to Pokhara. I set on the bus, quietly enjoy the last few moments of light on the mountain, thinking when will it be the next time I set on foot on the mountains.
Hotel Singapore
As the first hotel we went to is "away from the action'.We went back to the main street looking for another. Hotel Singapore appears and soon we found our taxi rolling to it's entrance.
Dining
One of our member had something against the service provided by restaurants (in general)
In Nepal, the waiter serves the dishes, then comes the cutlery. According to him,anyone who serves dishes without first serving the cutlery has severely and gravely broken the international protocol of fine dining.
I pity the guy serving us at the table. We're a tough bunch of people to serve. Waiting is certainly not in our dictionary. Every request must be fulfilled with 57.5 seconds. And you are right, Nepalis time are elastic. Just a minute can exactly means 1 hr.
Sunday, 22 April 2007
Saturday, 21 April 2007
Mad rush for flight tickets to Delhi.
At the end of the day, I am totally puzzled and beaten by the flight ticket issuing system.
After service I went back to my guest house eager to collect my flight ticket as promised.
Deepak smile and told that the ticketing office is closed and that I wouldn't be able to fly on Sun. I was disappointed and felt let down. They promise to get my tickets. And now I was told that the office was closed. Deepak should not have given me the impression that I can surely and absolutely get my Sunday flight ticket. Now I have to drop my wish to join the Delhi Church for service on Sunday at 1000hrs. I try to explain to Deepak that what he did was not good for the customer. However, he doesn't seems to get my point, which further madden me. I know that's nothing I can do, given the fact that today is Nepal's rest day (sat instead of sun). I understand that the office are closed. At the end of the talk, his colleague took over the reception and he left. I sat there, trying my best to hold my anger.
I went to another agent to try my luck. Interesting, they have 1 seat for Sun. But it's a 1100hrs flight and it cost 25USD more than the one I intended to pay earlier on. And so I did not take the offer. I am resolved to take the 36hrs bus to get to Delhi.... Sigh.
I spent the evening reading and writing. Finally I return to my guest house.
The receptionist handled me the ticket for Sunday. I was stunned. I have already given up hope to fly. Go...no go...go....no go. Very confusing, very draining emotionally.
He confirmed that the flight is 1100hrs on Sunday (tomorrow) and they are charging me the rate they quoted yesterday. I find it hard to say no. But my only reservation is not being able to meet Ramesh before I leave. I took the ticket and called Ramesh immediately.
He was asleep. I told him of the last minute absurd change to my plans. Unfortunately, he will be busy tomorrow with client. And so we bid goodbye over the phone. I went back to my room to pack. I felt I was emotionally not ready to leave Nepal but then... Many thoughts run thru my mind as I packed my bag in a zombified, auto mode.
Before I slept, I wrote a appreciation card to Ramesh. Maybe he could drop by my GH for a minute before heading to office. I hope and I wish. Lights off.
After service I went back to my guest house eager to collect my flight ticket as promised.
Deepak smile and told that the ticketing office is closed and that I wouldn't be able to fly on Sun. I was disappointed and felt let down. They promise to get my tickets. And now I was told that the office was closed. Deepak should not have given me the impression that I can surely and absolutely get my Sunday flight ticket. Now I have to drop my wish to join the Delhi Church for service on Sunday at 1000hrs. I try to explain to Deepak that what he did was not good for the customer. However, he doesn't seems to get my point, which further madden me. I know that's nothing I can do, given the fact that today is Nepal's rest day (sat instead of sun). I understand that the office are closed. At the end of the talk, his colleague took over the reception and he left. I sat there, trying my best to hold my anger.
I went to another agent to try my luck. Interesting, they have 1 seat for Sun. But it's a 1100hrs flight and it cost 25USD more than the one I intended to pay earlier on. And so I did not take the offer. I am resolved to take the 36hrs bus to get to Delhi.... Sigh.
I spent the evening reading and writing. Finally I return to my guest house.
The receptionist handled me the ticket for Sunday. I was stunned. I have already given up hope to fly. Go...no go...go....no go. Very confusing, very draining emotionally.
He confirmed that the flight is 1100hrs on Sunday (tomorrow) and they are charging me the rate they quoted yesterday. I find it hard to say no. But my only reservation is not being able to meet Ramesh before I leave. I took the ticket and called Ramesh immediately.
He was asleep. I told him of the last minute absurd change to my plans. Unfortunately, he will be busy tomorrow with client. And so we bid goodbye over the phone. I went back to my room to pack. I felt I was emotionally not ready to leave Nepal but then... Many thoughts run thru my mind as I packed my bag in a zombified, auto mode.
Before I slept, I wrote a appreciation card to Ramesh. Maybe he could drop by my GH for a minute before heading to office. I hope and I wish. Lights off.
A day of goodbyes
Anxious to find out the status of my flight ticket to Delhi on Sunday morning. I went down to the reception first thing in the morning. Tickets are not issued yet but they assure me of securing my tickets.
Today is the last day for my Singaporean friends. We had our last breakfast at Weizen, one of the best restaurant/bakery in Thamel. There's more shipping to be done. My friends have this obsession to spent every single domination in their wallet.
The last stop was a T-shirt shop. They had made order sometime ago to make some customised design on T-shirts. This will be the 3rd time they're back here. The previous 2 visit was disappointing, the shop owner got the design wrong. I bet they were banking on this 3rd visit to be fruitful.
Another round of heated words were exchanged. My friends were fuming. While the shop attendance are just confused. 3 mins into it, I realised that it's not going to end soon. And so I left for the hotel, leaving them at the battle front.
It's kind of disappointing that we didn't have a proper farewell. But I really have to go. Church meeting starts in 20mins. I need to grab a cab.
Goodbye my friends, see you in June 2007. I wanted to wish them all the best in their career. Deepak was quite nice, he walked me to the main road to get a cab. I needed his help to explain to the driver my destination.
Sunday service and farewell to Shammi
Service starts at 1030hrs, 30mins earlier than usual. Today, the church have a special program. Shammi is leaving for India and the church gave him a farewell.
It was moving to see so many disciple coming forward to share about Shammi and his family. Many were weeping. Disciples are mobile. We go wherever and whenever the lord calls. Shammi is going to India to start a new HOPE project at a town 3 hrs away from Delhi by car.
Today is the last day for my Singaporean friends. We had our last breakfast at Weizen, one of the best restaurant/bakery in Thamel. There's more shipping to be done. My friends have this obsession to spent every single domination in their wallet.
The last stop was a T-shirt shop. They had made order sometime ago to make some customised design on T-shirts. This will be the 3rd time they're back here. The previous 2 visit was disappointing, the shop owner got the design wrong. I bet they were banking on this 3rd visit to be fruitful.
Another round of heated words were exchanged. My friends were fuming. While the shop attendance are just confused. 3 mins into it, I realised that it's not going to end soon. And so I left for the hotel, leaving them at the battle front.
It's kind of disappointing that we didn't have a proper farewell. But I really have to go. Church meeting starts in 20mins. I need to grab a cab.
Goodbye my friends, see you in June 2007. I wanted to wish them all the best in their career. Deepak was quite nice, he walked me to the main road to get a cab. I needed his help to explain to the driver my destination.
Sunday service and farewell to Shammi
Service starts at 1030hrs, 30mins earlier than usual. Today, the church have a special program. Shammi is leaving for India and the church gave him a farewell.
It was moving to see so many disciple coming forward to share about Shammi and his family. Many were weeping. Disciples are mobile. We go wherever and whenever the lord calls. Shammi is going to India to start a new HOPE project at a town 3 hrs away from Delhi by car.
Friday, 20 April 2007
Lost and found 3
I know, this is at least the 3rd story you heard about my stuff getting lost and found.
Just 5m outside Thorong Peak Gh is Langtang Cybernet, probably the cheapest internet (20 rs) you can find in Thamel. Access speed is on par with those charging 30rs.
I wanted to upload my ACT photos on flickr before I depart for India. My friends drop by Langtang to ask me out for dinner. I logged out form the internet and left, with my camera still attached to the USB port on the CPU.
We went for our last celebration dinner at K2, who claims to be probably the best steak in Kathmandu. I don't fancy their burger anyway.
Back in the room at 1130pm. I was looking for my camera and they were obviously not in my camera pouch. Now all I can do is pray that my camera is picked up by the owner of Langtang cybernet. My precious camera. From my room, I have a view of the cybernet. I peeked over it several times as though I can see through the walls and have a preview of my precious.
Sat morning, at 0730hrs Dorje was already in business. I went down and walked into his place, trying to hold my anxiety. Dorje said that he was not in possession of my Canon. My heart sank. Serves me right for being careless.
I ask Dorje a 2nd time, I need the facts to sink in by hearing it a second time.
He was quite a good actor. He conned me into believing that he had no possession of my camera, but he did!! I couldn't contain my joy, jumped on him and gave him a big hug.
Last evening, after I left his shop, he picked up my camera. He asked the others but no one had any idea who it belongs to. So Dorje kept it, knowing that the owner would eventually return. And I did.
Just 5m outside Thorong Peak Gh is Langtang Cybernet, probably the cheapest internet (20 rs) you can find in Thamel. Access speed is on par with those charging 30rs.
I wanted to upload my ACT photos on flickr before I depart for India. My friends drop by Langtang to ask me out for dinner. I logged out form the internet and left, with my camera still attached to the USB port on the CPU.
We went for our last celebration dinner at K2, who claims to be probably the best steak in Kathmandu. I don't fancy their burger anyway.
Back in the room at 1130pm. I was looking for my camera and they were obviously not in my camera pouch. Now all I can do is pray that my camera is picked up by the owner of Langtang cybernet. My precious camera. From my room, I have a view of the cybernet. I peeked over it several times as though I can see through the walls and have a preview of my precious.
Sat morning, at 0730hrs Dorje was already in business. I went down and walked into his place, trying to hold my anxiety. Dorje said that he was not in possession of my Canon. My heart sank. Serves me right for being careless.
I ask Dorje a 2nd time, I need the facts to sink in by hearing it a second time.
He was quite a good actor. He conned me into believing that he had no possession of my camera, but he did!! I couldn't contain my joy, jumped on him and gave him a big hug.
Last evening, after I left his shop, he picked up my camera. He asked the others but no one had any idea who it belongs to. So Dorje kept it, knowing that the owner would eventually return. And I did.
Thursday, 19 April 2007
Apple nut pie craze.
Loh was salivating over the apple nut pie at a nearby bakery. Loh, Chin and I went to get our breakfast while Ming Yuan and Benny laze in the room.
I got this sudden inspiration to fly to Delhi instead of overland. A flight would cost 100 sing more than overland. However, I can shave 35hrs of traveling time. Getting a ticket in Nepal is certainly unlike getting one from Tigerair website. Agency have to check with ticketing office and so on and so forth. All this back and forth took about 2 hours. Finally, I gave up the flying option. Those that are available are in business class, way above my budget.
I got this sudden inspiration to fly to Delhi instead of overland. A flight would cost 100 sing more than overland. However, I can shave 35hrs of traveling time. Getting a ticket in Nepal is certainly unlike getting one from Tigerair website. Agency have to check with ticketing office and so on and so forth. All this back and forth took about 2 hours. Finally, I gave up the flying option. Those that are available are in business class, way above my budget.
Wednesday, 18 April 2007
Exploring Pokhara on 2 wheels.
Our 2nd relaxing day in Pokhara. Loh was hunger for action and we decide to go cycling. Lunch at the recommended Restaurant Once Upon A Time was not so fantastic for me. As the chicken was serve on a sizzling plate, it didn't take long for the sauce to dry up. Turns out, I find the 320rupees half chicken too dry.
Under the leadership of Loh and Chin, we were given a tour of true Pokhara, or perhaps the true Nepal, out of the touristy Lakeside and Damside.
We cycle to the Pokhara town where the happenings are for the locals. Unlike the tourist zone which was a duplication of shops-supermarket, internet cafe, up-market restaurant and tour agent. Over here you find shops selling merchandise meeting to the needs of Nepali such as a shop selling indian pot bigger than a bathtub for baby. We have our water break at Restaurant Almond, a local version of America fast food. Most interestingly, we went into a shopping centre that resembles People's Park in the 80's. At that time, it was possibly the most happening place to be.
My favourite part of the cycling was the countryside- Children playing soccer, huge padi fields, happy buffalo grazing the grass, men playing Carom, migrating birds flying in an inverted 'V' formation.
As the sun was setting slowly, we departed my favourite part of the cycling trip regretfully and make a dash for Devi's fall.
We came to the Damside and was fast approaching the place where all the fanciful but affordable restaurants are. There were local men playing table tennis and it caught out attention. We parked our bicycle and stop by it. Loh went to assess the players, at some point, the players are so good, Loh mistaken a game of ping pong for tennis. They are standing like 5 metres away from the table to receive the ball. While all this actions as going on, I stood by the dam watching the setting sun beautifully cast an orangery reflection on the lake. Mesmerise by the sight, I took a picture using Ming Yuan's camera.
Dhal Bhat
Being on the trek for more than 2 weeks, my stomach has programed itself to take almost 2 times my usual food intake. As a result, I acquire a liking for Dhal Bhat-Nepali version of buffet. Instead of fanciful spread of intercontinental breakfast, it's unlimited supply of rice, dhal (lentil soup, I don't know what is that), veg, potato and pickles. Meat comes at an additional charge of 50-100rupees but they are not part of the free flow, only 1 serving is allowed.
At Thakali Kitchen, I sense something different. I don't feel as hungry as before. Somehow my stomach detected that trekking is over and that I have to moderate my food intake. I heeded my body's calling and had just a portion of DBS (Dhal Bhat special)
It was my best time in Pokhara. From a rating of 5/10, I amended my ratings of Pokhara to 7.5/10. I fell in love with Nepal again. Suddenly, I find myself under the charm of Nepal all over again. I forget the dust and noise of Thamel, the commercialisation and money mindedness of city Nepalis.
Malebonding
We retreated back to our room after getting beer, a routine for the past 2 nights. Bunking with the guy, I was reminded of my younger days when I spent much time with my kakis in chalets or each other's home. Here, it was male bonding time, being shirtless, beer, being loud, silly jokes, 99, German Bridge, chess. In this room, men becomes boys. No women allowed. Memories that we will talk and reminisce for the next few decades.
Under the leadership of Loh and Chin, we were given a tour of true Pokhara, or perhaps the true Nepal, out of the touristy Lakeside and Damside.
We cycle to the Pokhara town where the happenings are for the locals. Unlike the tourist zone which was a duplication of shops-supermarket, internet cafe, up-market restaurant and tour agent. Over here you find shops selling merchandise meeting to the needs of Nepali such as a shop selling indian pot bigger than a bathtub for baby. We have our water break at Restaurant Almond, a local version of America fast food. Most interestingly, we went into a shopping centre that resembles People's Park in the 80's. At that time, it was possibly the most happening place to be.
My favourite part of the cycling was the countryside- Children playing soccer, huge padi fields, happy buffalo grazing the grass, men playing Carom, migrating birds flying in an inverted 'V' formation.
As the sun was setting slowly, we departed my favourite part of the cycling trip regretfully and make a dash for Devi's fall.
We came to the Damside and was fast approaching the place where all the fanciful but affordable restaurants are. There were local men playing table tennis and it caught out attention. We parked our bicycle and stop by it. Loh went to assess the players, at some point, the players are so good, Loh mistaken a game of ping pong for tennis. They are standing like 5 metres away from the table to receive the ball. While all this actions as going on, I stood by the dam watching the setting sun beautifully cast an orangery reflection on the lake. Mesmerise by the sight, I took a picture using Ming Yuan's camera.
Dhal Bhat
Being on the trek for more than 2 weeks, my stomach has programed itself to take almost 2 times my usual food intake. As a result, I acquire a liking for Dhal Bhat-Nepali version of buffet. Instead of fanciful spread of intercontinental breakfast, it's unlimited supply of rice, dhal (lentil soup, I don't know what is that), veg, potato and pickles. Meat comes at an additional charge of 50-100rupees but they are not part of the free flow, only 1 serving is allowed.
At Thakali Kitchen, I sense something different. I don't feel as hungry as before. Somehow my stomach detected that trekking is over and that I have to moderate my food intake. I heeded my body's calling and had just a portion of DBS (Dhal Bhat special)
It was my best time in Pokhara. From a rating of 5/10, I amended my ratings of Pokhara to 7.5/10. I fell in love with Nepal again. Suddenly, I find myself under the charm of Nepal all over again. I forget the dust and noise of Thamel, the commercialisation and money mindedness of city Nepalis.
Malebonding
We retreated back to our room after getting beer, a routine for the past 2 nights. Bunking with the guy, I was reminded of my younger days when I spent much time with my kakis in chalets or each other's home. Here, it was male bonding time, being shirtless, beer, being loud, silly jokes, 99, German Bridge, chess. In this room, men becomes boys. No women allowed. Memories that we will talk and reminisce for the next few decades.
Tuesday, 17 April 2007
Return to Pokhara with 4 new friends.
I have completed my Annapurna Circuit Trek in 16 days. I am now in Pokhara relaxing.
On the first week of my trek, I met 4 Singaporean. We complete the trek together.
Full detail on the trek will be up soon.
On the first week of my trek, I met 4 Singaporean. We complete the trek together.
Full detail on the trek will be up soon.
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