Kathmandu->Besisahar->BhulBhule
0700hrs-1230hrs. Alight at Tibet GH. 500rs
For the first 4 hrs journey, it is the same road leading to Pokhara. The bus turns into a different direction after crossing the big bridge that runs across Trisuli River.
After doing some calculation, I realise that I would have to work on a rather tight budget of 17,000rs for 24 days. I made a trip to the local bank hoping to be able to change my USD into Nepali rupees. No luck though. Then I went to one of the Western Union. To my delight, they do. The first offer was 36rs for 1 USD. I was willing to part my dollar for 65rs, knowing that I don't the have much of any option in a small town like this.
Now I feel safer. as a general guide, the higher you go, the higher the price of food and accommodation.
Besisahar->BhulBhule. 1hr. 35rs on local bus(runs every hour till 1700hrs).
Unmentioned in the guide book, you can hopped on a local bus that goes as far as BhulBhule. It stops in front of Thorong La GH. It pays to look like a local, unknowing to the bus conductor, I answer BhulBhule and handed a50 rs note and I was given a 15 rs change. You can walk if you want. It'll take 2-2.5hrs.
Thorong La GH looks busy with all the buses terminating here. Also, the nearby junction to the bridge makes it potentially noisy. I opted to cross the bridge to check out Manang GH. I saw the sign "Manaslu GH" and walk past it, thinking that Manang GH could be beyond that. I was wrong, there isn't any establishment beyond Manaslu.
BhulBhule
Manang GH is closed. I ended up at Hotel Arjun and Garden Restaurant. I was the only guest. There's a nice garden and interesting hot shower facilities that runs on gas. Rooms are basic but clean.
4 boys were running around and I starts to interact with them. Typical boys horsing around, getting a little physical. It is easy for Nepali to remember my name as the cartoon series Tom and Jerry is popular with the kids. Jerry also sounds like a Nepali food, sort of like a desert that is really sweet.
Haircut
If you are Asian and wants like to look like a local, I recommend you try having a haircut at a local barber. It works for me.
This morning the bus conductor of micro bus (passenger van) spoke to me in Nepali.Also the bus conductor on the local bus. The GH guy also spoke to me first in Nepali.
2 APR 2007
BhulBhule->Bahundanda->Jagat
0730hrs-Crawled out of bed. Strange. Somehow still want to sleep more. By 0830hrs, I was ready to go. 60minutes later, I arrived at NGADI. If I have known, i would have made this 60 mins walk yesterday. I like the field of crops that surrounds the GH.
120min. Arrived at Bahundanda. I was hungry. Entice by a signboard that says: "60 steps more and you wouldn't regret". True enough, I did not regret. After I ordered my chicken burger with ships,a western girl walk out to the dining area.I started a conversation with her.
She was from Slovakia and had only a guide with her. When my tea come, I moved over to sit at her table.She also did the Ghorepani Loop prior to ACT just like me! Except that she did an extension up to Chomrong. We both agree that it was our favourite town in this region.
I was getting ready to start my afternoon trek and the rain suddenly started. I am not in favour of walking in the rain. Furthermore, I got time. So I stayed and continue to chat with the Slovakian. We had a wonderful time talking about movies, books and India.
1430hrs. The rain stopped, it is time to go. I miscalculated the walking hours. It was supposed to be 3.5hrs. I stepped up my pace, just in case it took more than 3hrs 45mins to get to Jagat. I remember Ramesh's advice me not to walk in the dark...
Saturday afternoon. Ramesh sent me from Shammi's place to my hotel. Before he left, he gave me a few advice on trekking alone. He sounded concerned. I really appreciate him. Also, I promise myself that I will not put myself in an unnecessary dangerous position or situation. I have my family and friends waiting for me to return home safely. The other advice Ramesh gave me is to stay in towns with more GH. I heeded his advice and that's why I planned to stop over at Jagat.
Ambitious Singaporean
20 mins before reaching Jagat. I saw a group of trekkers ahead. On a closer look, I somehow have this feeling that they could be Singaporean. Soon I met my fellow Singaporean. I thought: "Yeah, I've got company" Not really though.
They have 16 days and they were planning to do the ACT and ABC. I thought doing the Circuit in 16 days is tight already. I guess many people had already advice them against their plans but I suppose they assume they could manage. I hope they don't push to hard and ended up having to be heli-evacuate out of the mountain. Honestly, I worried for them. Young Singapore men (I was once like them, I probably still is), we felt like we can do everything that our mind can perceived.
1800hrs, I was glad I made it here before the sun sets in 30mins. The Singaporeans wanted to press on to Chamje, 1 hr at least. We bid goodbye, good luck to them.
I took a walk around Jagat. There were so many tourist. This looks more like a major trekking route. Last night, I was the only guest in my GH. Tonight same too.
Passover
I saw the 4 Israelites men and started talking to them. Incidentally, today is the Passover. It is a major celebration for the Jews. Jesus and his disciples had the Last Supper on Passover too.
Levi 23:4-8
Numbers 9:1-14
Exodus 12
Egypt's refusal to let go of the Israelite angered God.The last plague God inflicted on the Egyptian was the killing of every first born in the land of Egypt with the exception of the Israelites. God instructed them to sacrifice lamb and smear the blood on the top and the side of their house. When God's destroyer come, they will 'passover' the Israelites (because of the blood on the house) and spare the killing of the first born as promise by God. See Prince of Egypt. It has a superb illustrated explanation of the Passover.
The Israelite who I spoke to explain a little to me. He said when their forefathers got out of Egypt, they were commanded by God to celebrate the Passover. And since today is the Passover, the 4 men would have some sort of celebration right here in Jagat. I was reminded that the Israelites are still obeying this millennium old command from God. And that THEIR forefathers were the people that God save from their slavery in Egypt.
We agree to walk together tomorrow, I would like to know more about their life and religion.
3rd APR '07-18 DC
Jagat->Tal
0715hrs. Got out of bed. I think I'll not make it on time to join the Israelites at 0800hrs. After placing order for my breakfast, I went up to pack my bag.
0730hrs-They walked by my place and I told them I'll catch up with them in a while.
Started reading the book of Amos. At 0815hrs I hit the road again.
The morning trek was hot as it was almost cloudless. I cross a couple of long suspended bridge, there are at least 300m long. My first chat with a trekker was a German, probably in his 40's. I think he's with the German camping group that I saw last night.
Half an hour later, I met a Korean girl. She spotted a short hairstyle, probably the first Korean woman I've seen with a hairstyle this short. We walked and chatted for awhile.
1015hrs. Finally caught up with the Israelites. They were taking a break in the shade. For men their age, I think they've walking pretty fast. They continued while I rested more. Before long, the Korean girl appears again. She started to complain about her load. It might be too much for her. I hope she make it or at least she'll find a porter on the way. I commended her for her command in English. She stayed and worked in NZ and Australia for a year. That helps her in her English.
For her, it is going to be a 1.5 year of travel. Actually, I don't understand why someone would like to be on the road for such a long time. I am 4 months away from home but I kept thinking about home all the time.
Alone or with a companion
I remember that last night, the Israelite man ask me if I like trekking alone or with a companion. That is a difficult question to answer.
Trekking alone gives me absolute freedom. I can wake up anytime, rest anytime, take long break if I want, or change my plans instantaneously. Most importantly, I can walk at my own pace, which could make a big difference to how you feel physically.
Walking at my own pace seems to be the most energy efficient. You walk according to how your body feels. Walking at some one's pace is different-You have to push yourself to catch up with someone faster than you; Stopping to wait for others could just be equally exhausting.
Trekking with a companion has the obvious benefit of a buddy system. There's someone to watch your back. You can make conversation. In the event of an accident or emergency, you've a partner to help you.
So, do I like to trek solo? It's is hard to tell, we'll see. I might find a good companion on the way.
Tal
I think I'm getting use to DB. Before I arrive at Tal, I've already made up my mind on DB for lunch.
I've wanted to lunch with my Israelites friend but 2 of them were some distance away. I felt a bit awkward to stick around uninvited, so I walked on. Looking for a place with a familiar name. I saw Potala GH and made a turn into the porch.
When I am done with DB, 4 westerner men came into the dining around to place order for lunch. From their attire, I can tell that they are going to the nearby waterfall. We talked and they asked why am I not staying in Tal. I paused for a while.
The entrance to Tal is grand. Set in a valley, Tal looks charming. With river running and mountains in the background. I can see a towering waterfall that is 50m high.
I went to take a better look at the waterfall. It really looks inviting. I counted that if I stay in Tal, I need 7 hrs to get to Chame. That's reasonable. So I change my plans and stayed in Tal instead of Barapani.
The water was too cold to sit under the running water. My next hour was spent sitting on the rock, sunbathing. I sung songs to God, I had a great devotional time.
4 APR '07
Tal->Chame
Knowing that today will be a 7hrs walk, I made an effort to wake up earlier.
I try not to eat eggs daily but today, I gave in to my desire to eat 2 omellete. I saw Bekh having his omelette sandwhiched between Tibetan bread, so I wanted to try that too.
Yesterday, an Australian couple checked into Potala GH too. They are probably in their 50's. They are really nice people. She always made an effort to thank the Nepali for their service, saying them in Nepali. When she realised that I'm alone in the dining hall, she invited me to join her and her husband. What a nice gesture I thought.
We share why we like trekking. Nepal's landscape is truly captivating. If only Singapore possessed 5% of the beauty and nature. She shared that though was struggling with the terrain, trekking actually gives her a peace of mind.
I spent most of the day trekking on my own. By 1130hrs, I've arrived at Danaque, 30mins earlier that I planned. Trekkers Inn is closed, as told by Potala GH. The owner has return to Kathmandu. The not so nice DB now cost 200rs.
1300hrs. On the road again. Chame is 3 hrs away at least.
After Bharatani, I met a Japanese woman. Her husband is Thai and they are residing in Bangkok.
I almost went by the wrong way. Luciky the Japanese woman's guide showes me the correct way to the next town, Bagarchap. Thank God, I would have gone on a long way.
At Koto Qupar, I was asked to sign in at a Police CHeckpoint. I was surprise to see the names of the 4 Singaporeans. I imagine them to be beyond CHame. They started their day at Dharapani, 2 hrs ahead of Tal.
10mins later, I meet them at a stream, melting ice and collecting the water. They wanted to stop at Chame too. I got company.
5th APR '07 - 12DC
Chame->Lower Pisang
I felt a bit guilty yesterday. It was a long day for me and I was trying to stay on the schedule. I passed by 2 local woman. After exchange of Nameste, they asked if I had medication for cuts or abrasion. Without thinking twice, I answer coldly with a 'No'.
I read an article about local people seeking medical help from trekkers. Some of these medical seekers just want to get western medicine. They had the impression that there's something magical.
I felt guilty because I doubt her immediately. I could have assess her injury (if ther's any) before assuming that she's faking it. Furthermore, I am a certified first aider. I wish I could have done better. The Parable of the Good Samaritan (Luke 10:30-35). I am a disciple and I slipped the chance to help someone who might potentially be in need. So I repented today.
As usual, I was walking alone from Chame to Khudar for lunch at Buddha Restaurant. I was enjoying the restuarant all to myself after all the other trekkers have left. I ordered a pot of milk tea, read my guide book and then read Into Thin Air. I was engrossed in the story when a familiar trekker sat on the same table. I met her 2 hrs ago on the trail. Soon I found out that that Korean girl was lugging behind. Man, they are really taking a long time!!!
The Korean girl arrived with a limping leg, it doesn't look good. I was thinking to myself :
"Do I want to wait for her?"
She looks like she's struggling and probably needed some help. FInally, I decided to stay and walk with them to Pisang. Since the terrain is gentle, I can even help carry some of her load. I remind myself that I'm a disciple and I need to exhibit the quality of a disciple wherever I go. I end up having a 2.5 hrs lunch break at Buddha Restaurant.
I try to offer to carry her smaller bag which she is carrying in front of her. She prefer to carry it herself. Thankfully, the trail now gets really level but she's still struggling a little. Off course, the slight headache gets in her way.
We came to a stream and stop to refill our water. I offer a 2nd time to carry her bag and she declined again. Citing reasons that she doesn't want to burden others and that I am sceptical of altitude sickness too.
In my prideful mind, I thought this is really a walk in the park. How could altitude sickness strike me? I just trek at an elevation of 5200m, you know? But I was reminded that I need to be humble as God opposed the proud. Sekali, next day I ganna AMS at 3700m, that would be malu man.
6 APR '07 - 8DC
Lower Pisang->Upper Pisang->Ngawa
We agree to set off together. After hearing that Shanti and I will be attempting the upper route, the Korean girl couldn't help but wants to join us too. For her, companions is as important as completing the Circuit.
1 hr into the upper route, I arrived at the double bridge. I decided to stop for the girls. While I was spacing out and singing to myself, I suddenly think of my money bag. To my horror, I recalled placing them under the pillow. Assuming that the girls will arrived any minute, I left my bag (lest my wallet) and make a dash back to Maya Hotel at Lower Pisang. I was joggin and 2 mins later I bump into my Korean friend and explains the situation to her. I'm so glad that she'll be looking after my bag, which is just as important to me.
In my anxiousness, I didn't notice that I've been ascending. As soon as I spot the pond, I'm sure I've mistakenly gotten on the upper route. I was angry at myself for making careless mistake one after another. As I huff and puff, I pray to God that my money bag would remain intact in the room.
Arriving at Maya GH, I went straight to my room, opened up the door and found my money bag underneath the pillow. I promise myself I'll never do that again. The reason why I have the habit of placing my wallet and moneybag under the pillow is that I imagine some thieves would enter my room while I am asleep and take them away. Come to think of it, it's quite dumb of me to do that. I'm such a light sleeper, there's little chance that I'll not be awaken by intruders.
Today was quite a test of my patience. I find my Korean friend taking too long a time to walk Yet I felt obligated to wait for her. She's alone and struggling with her load.
I waited 30 mins for her at 1 of the rest stop and she's still not in sight. I got a little worried and stated backtracking a little, hoping that she'll popped out anytime. After waiting for another 10mins, I decide to walk until I see her.. I couldn't just leave her alone. I was worried she might get an injury or something.
When I met her, she was resting and looked exhausted. This time, I was quite insistent on carrying her bag.
From afar, Ghawal looks like some village of another century. Almost medieval. My first thought was: "Would there be lodges in a Tibetan village like this?"
The lodges here are far more basic, I believe, is due to the remoteness. I was trying to look for a lodge minus the trekkers I met in the previous 2 lodges, though I don't mind making new friends.
I placed my bet on Hotel Shanti. I like the lodge for the friendly and helpful lady. And the food was better than I imagined. I would recommend this place to anybody staying in Ngawal.
We spent the evening huddling in front of the stove. Watching them prepare and cook my veg fried macaroni increases my appetite greatly. I tasted as good as it looks.
7th APR '07
Ngawal->Braga->Manang
First thing in the morning, I run thru the menu in my mind. As the menu is more or less standandise thruout the trek. it doesn't take long for one to memorise them. Lazing in my sleeping bag, I've made up my mind to have noodle soup for breakfast.
There is no one in the kitchen, so I went to check if the kettle on the stove is boiling or not. I waited patiently for the water to boil and make my instant coffee.
My Korean friend ask me to go ahead and so I did. After packing and paying for my food and lodging, I left Hotel Shanti at 0900hrs.
I enjoy my stay here. Almost like a homestay, we stayed in the kitchen where most of the activities are held. We keep warm near the stove, saw our food cooked on the stove. Saw the family preparing DB and eating together as a family. Finally, after dinner, entertainment was a funny Bollywood movie.
Recalling the description of the bakery in Braga, I stepped up my pace and imagine myself having nice Cinnamon roll and sipping nice coffee under the sun.
I'm reading the true account of a 1996 infamous Everest disaster, written by Jon Krakuer. He was part of the expedition as a client. He survived the storm to tell his story. 11 died.
In Manang, you can find products and services parallel to that of Thamel but it is 2-4times more expensive. 'shopping centres' with merchandise from toilet paper to Sony MS. And there are cinemas too. I couldn't resist the temptation to watch the movie based on the same book that I'm currently engrossed in- Into Thin Air.
For 100 rs (2.2sing), I must say it is quite value for money. WIth a fire place, the atmosphere is rather comfortable and warm.
The book beats the movie anytime. There's just to much details missing in the movie, though some attempts were made to bring some background to the characters and the story, but were insubstantial.
I was especially moved and to a much degree disturbed at the last conversation that the celebrated NZ guide Rob Hall had with his wife via walkie talkie and satellite phone.
One couldn't help but wonder for what reason did these great men and women died for? As what Jon mentioned, climbing Everest is a mystery, and for most part-illogical.
As I lay on my bed in Manang, my thoughts replayed footage of the movie. There was a great sense of sadness. At the same time, I fear that 1 day, trekking will be insufficient to quench my thirst for adventure, and that I'll take up mountaineering eventually (and inevitably). I fear that climbing might become the centre of my life and become the purpose of my existence.
8th APR '07
Manang-> Yak Karka
I thing I like about Manang is the numerous bakery that serve fresh bakeries. Because so many people make Manang a base for acclimatization, you can be sure that these hungry and bored trekkers patronises the bakeries.
I remember that I need to get 3 items from the supermarket in Yeti Hotel- Water bottles for crossing the pass, AAA size batteries to power my headlamp and MP3 player, Johnson baby powder. Thorong La GH charges 50 rs/hr for charging batteries. Buying fresh batteries saves me 150.
I decide to travel with my fellow citizen today. As normal, they left 1.5hrs later than they intended. Which is ok for me. I get up, sleep, have breakfast and set off anytime I like. I can walk alone or with anyone that I like.
I made a few conversation with Loh. However, he couldn't keep up with his breath going upslope. Our conversation was then subjected to the terrain.
Ming Yuan was the most experience trekker among the 4. We exchange experience on trekking. By and large, I am more experience that he is, with the exception of Kalimanjaro. When I mention Tahan to him, he expressed interest.
One of our member was not happy with us. He accuses the rest of the guys for not waiting on him, me included I presumed. After telling us off, he walked past us and went straight ahead. I thought :"Hey, what's that!" Maybe it is because I've just got acquainted with them and I didn't understand their trekking culture. As for me, I've been trekking alone and I feel I have absolute right to trek at my own pace. I applied the same rules to others. They don't have to follow my pace. I decided to back out from the group, just to give space for him and for myself to stomach the scolding.
Food
I am really pleased with my lunch and dinner. It is amazing what they could churn out from the kitchen at this remote and elevated place. Menu was creative. Food was delicious and bakeries are unbelievable. I love the chocolate cake. And I think I'm going to try the apple crumble tomorrow.
Last night, I saw shooting stars while praying. I just witness another 2 shooting stars. It was a special time for me and God. The shooting stars are, to me, like an acknowlegdement from GOd that he heard my prayer and he is pleased being with me.
9th APR '07
Yak Kharka->Thorong Phedi
0600hrs- I was awake but countinue to laze in my sleeping bag and listen to music on my player.
My apple crumble breakfast didn't work out, so I opt for chocolate pancake. At this elevation, everything is expensive. It is almost impossible to get a meal below 200rs.
My companion left at 0840hrs. I could see their departure from the window of the dining hall.
0945hrs, I was on the road alone again. It wasn't sunny like the previous morning. I was apprehensive if I should replace my jungle hat for my fleece hat. At some point, it snow lightly.
1000hrs. There's a stream crossing and the trail drops 150m, and then climb another 200m. I met them at the rest point soon after the 200m hard climb. I continue on.
A check with my guidebook reveals that I am at most 45mins away from the lodge. So I pressed on after hydrating myself.
10mins has past and I spot the lodge. I am so proud of my pace. I am 30mins before the estimatied walking time.
This morning before I left Gangapurna GH at Yak Kharka, the owner gave me a card of his brother's lodge in Thorong Phedi. It is call Hotel New Phedi. I remember that Ming had very good DB at Gangapurna. I am hoping that HNP has the same nice DB.
I notice that many ppl are packing and getting ready to go to High Camp, which in my opinion is not a sensible acclimatization stretegy due to a difference of 1000m ascend from Yak Kharka. After talking to the Jewish girl, I learned that she's adviced by their guide to do a trial walk to High Camp. Everyone seems to be doing it and I was persuaded
To my surprise and delight, I've made it to High Camp in 40mins! Weather was bad though. The snow gets heavier by the hours.
High Camp has 2 nice lodges . Not wonder so many people are tempted to stay here despite the acclimatization advice against it (altitude talk in Manang).
I had a pleasant evening talking to the singaporeans. I even say it's a good bonding time. Our conversation revolves around our national topic-food. Chong Pang Nasi Lemak has the best chicken wings accompanied by the best sambal. Not to be miss is the claypot from Sembawang. As well as Satay Club. I remember I prayed to God for good relationship with them. I'm thankful that God answers them by creating the opportunity.
10th APR ' 07 -
-3DC
Thorong Phedi->High Camp->Thorong La->Muktinath
Today is the big day for everyone doing the ACT. All the previous days of acclimatizing was for this big day. I felt blessed that for the past 10 days, I've been eating and sleeping well with no signs of AMS.
Breakfast was set at 0430hrs. And I had a big one too. Tuna sandwich that comes with chips. On top of that a small pot of milk tea (about 1 L). On most occasion, I enjoy having tea in pot but not this morning. I saw everyone leaving for the Pass and I get anxious to get going too. So I kind of force the milk tea down my throat for hydration.
I suppose I'm the last person to leave the lodge for the pass. At 0550hrs, there's enough light to trek without headlamp. With a heavy breakfast and a dislike for early morning treks (especially those for catching sunrise), I struggle to catch my breath.
Slowly and steadily, I completed the steepest ascent for the day. I made good time in 40mins! That is the same timing as yesterday trial ascent without load.
Since I brought my crampon, I decided to put them on. I actually feels great-much more grip walking on snow and even better on ice. But ice is rare on the trek.
I keep to my stretegy- 1 hr walk, 5-10mins rest. Coincidently, my 1 hrs of walk match with the time I took to get from 1 teahouse to the other. I met the Singaporeans at Yakawakang, between High Camp and Thorong La.
I was reminded of Tibet. Mountains fully covered with snow. Tracks covered with snow. However, because the trail is walked by trekkers daily, it is easy to walk on the already trampled on snow trails. Naturally, it's easy to find the route too.Gaiters are not necessary. If snow level is high, the pass would have been shut already.
At the 3rd break, I met Deepak and I offer him my water.
I was really delighted to see the pass 5 mins after my 3rd break. I want to check the elevation and temperature but realise my watch is missing from the strap that I strapped it on to. At least I'm sure I lost my watch in the last 10 mins. After putting down my bag, I walk back to the 3rd rest point. With my eyes scanning the snow path as I made my way. I ask every trekker that I past if they've chanced on my watch. Finally a westerner told me he saw someone picking up my watch. I thank him and walked on to find the guide who picked up my watch.
Lost and found
I met the guide who picked up my watch but I was surprise by his response. He actually asked for a fee. Despite the way he said "as you wish". I sensed his intention of wanted a fee for returning my watch.
Honestly, I didn't expect this to come from a Nepali. I have far better impression of these people of the mountain. If I ever pick up someone's wallet, I would returned it to a police station or the owner personally if possible. I would not have thought of asking a for a fee for returning what is due him.
300rs (6-7sing) for returning what is mine. My mood was somewhat affected by the incident. Not so much of the money, but more of the changing attitudes in the Nepali. But those are just my personal observation and this could be an isolated case.
Anyway, it was suppose to be a happy and celebration, after 10 days of trekking. I try to put my unhappiness aside and shift my focus to this memorable moment.
My friends arrived. I congrajulate them with a hug. Some of them are first time trekkers. First time walking for 10 days, first time experiencing snow, first time experiencing -3DC. First time standing at an elevation of 5414m. On top of that, 2 of them had gotten the great news that they've cleared their much feared exams. They are literally on cloud nine now. I felt really happy for them.
Descent
I don't like this part. 3 hrs of continuous descent to Muktinath. 1500m descent to be exact. Nearing the last 30mins, my toes are sore. I am expecting blisters.
Ranipurna was the place and not Muktinath. My first few attempts to get a room was unsuccessful. Hotel Nightingale has room with hot shower in the common bathroom.
Most of the lodges claims to offer 24hrs hot shower but really how many lodge delivery what they claim are doubtful. I waited almost 1.5hrs for the shower and decided to give up. I asked for a pail of boiled water instead.
I wouldn't recommend Hotel Nightingale to anybody. Service and food are poor.
11th APR '07
Muktinath->Eklaibhuti (or Kegbeni)->Jomsom
Today's the 11th day of my trek and I am getting bored. I suppose I'll end my trek before 17th and stay a couple of days in Pokhara. I also want to get back to Kathmandu to visit the HOPE school. I believe I'll go to Delhi to join them for Sunday service on 22nd apr. Then spendtime with the Delhi brothers and finally meet Fang in Delhi on the 26th apr.
I am still thinking if I can get Fang to bring anything from home. There's not much things except maybe a bottle of Kimbal or Sin Sin garlic chilli sauce.
I couldn't find any motivation to extend my trek to ABC. I was hoping that I could join the Singapoeans and travel with them. I spend the first 1.5hrs of my time trying to follow a particular footprint. It was a sandals footprint and because sandals are rarely worn by trekers, it becomes easy to spot. When I arrived at Nirvana Hotel, I gave up. I think they might have stayed in Ranipurna or Jharlot due to injury or fatigue or something.The Thorong La day was a hard day for all.
At Khingar, there's a junction-one leads to Jomsom, the other to Kegbeni. I forget about the junction and when I got there. I just follow the trekker ahead of me, and it leads me to Jomsom via Eklaibhuti.
God must have planned for me to take that trail. I met the Singaporeans there. Otherwise, I would have spent the night at Kegbeni.
The trail leading to Jomsom is winding. I went looking for Windy Valley Hotel. We called it 狂风谷.
I decided from today onwards to travel with my friends. According to plans, we'll arrived at Pokhara on 16th Apr.
TO BE CONT....
16th APR '07
Ghorepani->Ulleri->Birethanti->Naya Pul
Almost, I wanted to make an effort to climb Poonhill for the 3rd time. No to prove anything, but just so that I can share the experience with my mates.
0500hrs. I find myself to tired to get out of bed. Even the lure of a 360 degree paranomic view from Poonhill can't do the trick. Next thing I know, I was 0700hrs. Time to order breakfast.
They come back 10mins after I get to the dining hall. I flipped thru Ming Yuan's camera and I saw a different view from Poonhill. It was cloudy. Not that it was not beautiful, just different. Today's going to be a long day, according to my guidebook. It will take us 6 hrs to get to Nayapul.
Before setting off from Ghorepani, I remember vaguely that lunch would be 3.5hrs away, at Tikha Dungha. I was happy to arrive at Ulleri cause the next town would be it. I was disappointed. Ulleri is such a big town, I took me 1.5hrs to get from 1 end to the other, It was over 3000 steps of continuous steps down. Thinking back, I went up this flight of steps with Charmaine. How did we manage that? I don't know man?!!
Coming to 1.5hrs of descend, Benny Ming Yuan and I call for another break. At the same time, we're wondering where would Loh and Chim be. They were out of out sight for the past 2.5hrs. The last we saw they, they were setting up a new chess game. My guess was that they got stuck in the game and hence the delay. Ming was less optimistic, he thought Loh might have difficulty negotiating 3000ste with a fully loaded pack. In the midst of all the speculation, they appeared. It was 30mins more to lunch place.
It started to rain at 1230hrs. At the lowhill region,it is normal to rain daily. We hope the rain will stop on time for us to continue after we Dhal Bhat-ed.
According to the guidebook. Nayapul is 3h away. Loh was getting anxious to catch the last bus at 170hrs ( I don;t believe it ends so early). We left at 1400hrs, making a dash to Nayapul, the gateway to steaks at Pokhara.
Something in me wanted to spent the last stretch of the trek enjoying instead of rushing. On the other hand, I have no intention to put up an unnecessary resistance to Loh's burning desire to get to Pokhara by tonight. Ming shares my sentiment. We neither hasten our pace nor did we slow down.
WE got Lucky, by 1630hrs we hopped on the supposed last bus to Pokhara. I set on the bus, quietly enjoy the last few moments of light on the mountain, thinking when will it be the next time I set on foot on the mountains.
Hotel Singapore
As the first hotel we went to is "away from the action'.We went back to the main street looking for another. Hotel Singapore appears and soon we found our taxi rolling to it's entrance.
Dining
One of our member had something against the service provided by restaurants (in general)
In Nepal, the waiter serves the dishes, then comes the cutlery. According to him,anyone who serves dishes without first serving the cutlery has severely and gravely broken the international protocol of fine dining.
I pity the guy serving us at the table. We're a tough bunch of people to serve. Waiting is certainly not in our dictionary. Every request must be fulfilled with 57.5 seconds. And you are right, Nepalis time are elastic. Just a minute can exactly means 1 hr.
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