The Holy Ridge - Sheng Leng Trail – 聖稜線

Behold this Holy Ridge!" wrote Japanese climber Numai Tetsutaro in 1928. "Who can fully accomplish this climb from Dabajianshan to Syue Mountain? Who can be crowned with the laurel of victory and be the first to tell of the truth and beauty of the journey?

Shengleng Trail is also known as Holy Ridge Trail. 

This July, I'll be flying over to Taiwan to do this trail. Certainly one of the toughest trek in Taiwan. The level of difficulty is relative. It depends if you are hiring porters to carry your supplies, the season, and the prevailing weather. 

Just by examining the trail conditional, gradient, and the amt of supplies I need to carry (between 20-30kg). I agree with some website that this trek is rate 5 out of 5 star difficulty.

If I have a choice on the season, I would like to go during winter. I love snow on the mountain. Perhaps after experiencing Summer trek, I'll come back in the future to experience it in Winter.


As an old saying in the mountain climbing realm goes, “those who finish Shengling Trail are qualified to get married.” It means only when a young man breaks through all difficulties along this trail can he shoulder the responsibility of having a family.- Sheipa National Park website.

Perhaps the above might turn out to be true for me. 

These are great links to tell you more about the trek.

http://hikingintaiwan.blogspot.sg/2009/10/holy-ridge-days-1-2.html
http://hikingtaiwan.wordpress.com/2011/04/11/the-holy-ridge/

Taiwan...Touch my heart

Taiwan East Coast highway road trip, originally uploaded by Jerry Tok.

Taiwan...Touch your heart

This is the Taiwanese tourism board tag line. Indeed, Taiwan had touch my heart in many ways.

A brother ask me, what is my deepest impression of Taiwan. I answered without hesitation: 雪山 (Snow Mountain) and the Taiwanese, especially the brothers who housed me and spent time with me.

雪山-Xueshan-Snow Mountain
A picture speaks a thousand words, so pls refer to my photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/jerrytok/sets/72157594407548916/ There are a few millions words there.

I like the 黑森林（black forest). 黑森林 is full of alpine trees (or so I think). During the day, little or no sunlight penetrates into the forest and hence the name black forest. The trees are rather tall with branches and leaves at the top. It was as though all the trees are racing against each other to catch as much sunlight as they possibly could.

Off course, I love the snow. The last time I see snow (on the ground) was at Nepal. And that was 4 years ago. Singapore is located 2 degree north of the equator. Our weather forecast is 24-35 degree C thruout the year. Back to the snow- It was snowing prior to the day before we make our ascent to 雪山主峰(Snow Mountain Main Peak). According to our guide, the possibility to make the ascent is slim. So they next morning, we were praying hard for the ascent to be possible. There is no way to know than to try. Fortunately, there was another group, they went ahead of us to 开路. By the time we got to the snow part, it was quite easy to walk. The previous group had helped us melt the snow on the trail.

Taiwanese
Taiwanese are warm and friendly. Service industry is excellent. Take for instance, Taiwanese greet every customer 欢迎光临. You can step into any shop and make as much enquiry as you like. You can step out of the store without making any purchase. Retailer rarely give you the black face nor pressure you to make any purchase. Once at Kending, George and I went into a restaurant. The waitress serve us plain water while she hands the menu to us. George and I both agree that the price is abit to steep for our liking. We told the waiter that we decided not to eat here, she remain courteous and thank us for patronising (strictly speaking, we only walk in). No black face. I really salute their excellent service.

During the Xueshan trek, we stop by along the side of the trail. We sat there and right in front of us is a beautiful mountain range. Our guide, nickname Ferrari was there with us. Besides the 4 Singaporeans with me, there were 6 other Taiwanese uncles and aunties with us. We were chatting and laughing and really enjoying each other's company. Ferrari is very nice. He made coffee for us. Because of his kindness, even the hot water that he prepared tasted sweet.

台北教会的弟兄姐妹
I am so grateful to the Taipei brothers for housing me. They are so warm,sincere, caring and loving. Thruout my staying there, I have to privilege to stay in 3 brother's flat.

The first brothers' flat was with 振宁，阿鸿，建明，Danny and Wei Yu. I feel especially close to 振宁. I love to ride around Taipei in his scooter.

The second brothers' flat was with 世渊,Sunny and 阿杰. When I arrive, 阿杰show me to the room, the brothers prepare a fruit basket to welcome. Honestly, I am quite overwhelmed by their hospitality. Besides the fruit basket, 阿杰print a map of their house location and a local phone card. 世渊 is very fatherly. He is very patient to explain things to. He gave me some insider stories to the never ending unusually relationship between Taiwan and China. I really enjoy talking to him. Sunny is the brother that treated me to 臭豆腐Fermented bean curd and 鸭血糕 Solidified duck's blood.

The third brothers' flat was with 9 brothers, I know 富源 most. On Sunday, he took time out and brought me around Taipei. We went to hot spring together. Then on Monday morning, he woke up at 4am to sent me to the bus terminal for me to catch a bus to the airport.

北投 ＢｅｉＴｏｕ

北投　ＢｅｉＴｏｕ, originally uploaded by Jerry Tok.

My first hot spring experience. Fuyuan was with me. It was his first experiences as well.

We went to the public one. It cost 2 sing dollars. Other private ones are from 10 sing onwards. Though public is slightly crowded, you can meet more locals. In fact, most of them are locals. As usual, most of them are ah peks and aunties. I think they are frequent user.

Anyway, I try soaking in the hot pool. 10mins into it, Fuyuan and I decided to get out. Cannot tahan ah... I was sweating profusely and my heartbeat went up. It was as though I am jogging in zone 4 ( using the heartrate monitor). We look around and realise there was a cold pool and it was freezing man. Honestly, I am not sure of the temperature of the pools. My estimation is that the hot pool is 70 degree C. The cold pool is approximately 18 degree c.

You should try hopping from the hot pool to the cold pool. And don't procreastinate, just dive!! Once inside the cold pool, you actually feel ok...for the first 3 mins I mean. You'll feel instantly that the cold water has chilled your lungs. you feel like there is mint in the air. 5 mins later, I felt giddy. Like a spinning effect. Actually the feeling is quite shiok, abit like high on drugs.... Can anyone explains this strange reaction? Jt? Do you have any useless facts to explain this???

台北101

台北, originally uploaded by Jerry Tok.

I have a hard time finding a day with clear sky to capture the world's highest building.

The other day, I went jogging around the brothers' place. The track is hilly, sort of like Macritchie. I like it immediately. The park is set on top of a mountain.

Just as I was jogging and exploring this new exciting park, I saw clear blue sky. From the summit of this hill, you can view the city. Taipei 101 sticks out of the city strangely, All of the buildings around her are not even half as tall as her. Pity that I don't have my camera with me, it was sunset and she (101) looks gorgeous

Yang Ming Shan Park

Yang Ming Shan Park, originally uploaded by Jerry Tok.

This place is beautiful but... not for me lah. The trails are too mild for me already. I went there on a weekday afternoon. The whole park is full of uncles and auntie. They were engaging in all sorts of activities- Sitting, meditating, playing chess, playing mahjong, doing make up, picnic, sleeping. etc etc..

Yawn....

48 mountains and more to go.

Remember the Singaporean auntie I met on bus 260? After talking to her, a Taiwanese auntie started talking to me too. I told her that I came to Taiwan especially to trek Xueshan and Yushan.

Turns out, she is a Taiwan mountain veteran. Her maiden trek was Yushan back in 1988. Since then, she's been trekking. Out of the 200 over peaks in Taiwan, she's done 48. Very impressive. She looks like she's in the 50's and she certainly is not stopping at 48 peaks.

She also shared her Mount Fuji experience. Actually, she didn't enjoy it. Taiwan mountains view beats Fuji anytime, she said. She said Fuji was so ugly that at 1 point, she ask herself why did she come to this ugly place when she have beautiful mountains back home. I agree with her wholehearted. Beside Gunung Rinjani in Lombok, Indonesia, Xueshan is the 2nd most beautiful trek I've been to in Asia, outside the Himalayas range.

After hearing her story, I feel so tempted to climb more Taiwan mountains. Not all Taiwan mountain have lodges(Shan Zhuang) to stay. There are many that required trekkers to bring their own tent, food and water. Sounds more like trekking to me. Despite of the weight, I prefer self sufficient trek. Like I mention earlier, I am quite turned off by the cramped lodge in Xueshan and Yushan. It's worst than Pasar Malam. There's no privacy nor peace. Getting away from crowd is one of the beauty of trekking, you certainly don't have this privilege in the lodge. I look forward to self sufficient treks in Taiwan.

Trekking gears haven

As bus 260 is approaching the terminal at Taipei Main Station. I saw this famous trekking gear shop, Deng Shan You (Trekking Friends). I alighted and walk towards Deng Shan You.

Then I saw Patagonia and many trekking gear shops. I went into every trekking gears shop to shop. I remember that the road name is Zhong Shan Bei Lu (Central Mountain North Road). This place is a trekking gear haven!!!

I can't believe I actually spent 2 hours looking at gears without taking a break. It feels more tiring to shop 2 hrs than to jog 2 hrs. My conclusion is that Taiwanese are very willing to spent on gears. I was hoping to see local Taiwan or China brands, which I assume to be cheaper. I was wrong. The shops carry all sorts of brand, from USA to New Zealand. Patagonia, Eiger, Atunas, Mac Pac, Vaude, ProCam Fits, Salewa (they have apparel as well), Sea to Summit, Chaco, MSR, Nalgene, many other camping stove brands, Leki. and many many banyak banyak brand. Taiwanese are really spoilt for choice.

There's this brand call Aiger, might be from China. Also, there's another interesting brand-Wild Roses, for women by women.

Taiwanese are into hitech gear. They like to buy apparel that are quick dry, breathable, windproof, and all sorts of proof. Basically, it translate to Goretex material and it means super EXPENSIVE. Even uncles and aunties also into high tech gears.

Singaporeans... complaining again

I was on board bus 260. An older lady, together with her grandchildren, children and a foreign looking follower board the bus too. She ushered her grandchildren to the back of the bus in English. That was quite rare for a Taiwanese to converse in English, I thought.

So she was talking to her grandchildren and suddenly she mention "singapore". I turned around and ask if she's Singaporean, and bingo. First Singaporean I met in Taiwan.

As we talk, she did what most Singaporean are fond of doing-Complaining. There was language barrier, she claimed. Taiwanese couldn't understand her broken mandarin that was littered with Behasa Malayu and Singlish. Neither could Taiwanese converse in English.

Next, she complained about food. She couldn't agree with the food here. Actually, I think she went to the wrong place. She mention food that I've not come across, for e.g., duck tongue. Strange.

Actually, the reason why she come to Taiwan is because her son wants to marry a Taiwanese girl. Her son wants to move to Taiwan too. And she just couldn't understand why.

Come to think of it, I think I am adapting quite well. Just like a chameleon.

Experiment with food

I've moved to another brothers' flat. The brothers staying here are Shiyuan, Sunny and Ah Jie.

After mid week service, Shiyuan gave me a ride home while Sunny went to buy supper after hearing that I haven't taken my dinner. And guess what was supper? It was Zhu Za Tang. I decided to be adventurous in my diet too. As far as I remember, I have not try Zhu Za Tang on my own accord. Don't ask me what I actually put in my mouth, it's definitely some intestine. Luckily got other side dishes like Ji Pai (Taiwanese chicken cutlet).

I tried more adventurous food last night. Sunny ask if I've tried Taiwan famous fermented bean curd (Cou Dou Fu), I said I don't mind. So Sunny bought the fermented bean curd in Ma La soup. Besides bean curd, he also bought Ya Xue (solidified suck blood). I don't think Singapore sells Ya Xue, but it is the equivalent of Zhu Xue (solidified pig's blood). Anyway, the Ma La soup is quite strong so it sort of cover up the other taste.

Evening prayer with brothers at Daan garden

2 brothers brought me out for dinner and we decide on Bai Gan Ze Huo Guo (White Cane steamboat). It was a buffet dinner. Got free flow of desert, drinks and ice-cream. Yeh, brothers bond over food. This restaurant got a interest no. It is Wo-Wo-Wo-Ci-Huo-Guo. Can you figure out the no.? It is 555-458. WE had a good laugh.

I had a sin confession to make, though I struggle to open up. (sorry I won't disclose the details. It's a men's issue) After the confession, the brothers encourage me. I feel lifted up by their support and encouragement. After all , we are men and can relate to the common struggles.

Every often, Satan lie to us. He tells us it is ok to not confess to man, just confess to God is sufficient. He tells us we just need to repent on our own, confession is optional. However, in James 5:16 it says-

Therefore confess your sins to each other and pray for each other so that you may be healed. The prayer of a righteous man is powerful and effective.

Confession humbles us. It takes humility to tell another man that you have weakness and have sin against God. True to what the bible says, I feel refreshed and recharged. I am more ready to do God 's will and stay pure.

We take a 5 mins walk to Daan garden and found a mini tower. We went up to and there we pray to God, in mandarin off course. I was the last to pray, quite tongue tied. I need to think hard to find the right word to express. Nevertheless, it was refreshing. The brothers address God as "ba ba" , just like how I greet my own dad. I can feel the intimacy they had with God. And the prayer certain bond us together.

Staying in a brothers' flat.

Here in Taiwan, the christians call the brothers' flat di xiong zhi jia. I am staying in one of them. Taiwan houses are quite big, an equivalent of a Singapore 4-5 room flat.

There are 4 brothers residing here. One brother is in the insurance industry. Then there was another brother, as we were chatting, He told me he ever stay in Singapore for 4 years to complete his secondary studies. We were both from the same secondary school- Mayflower secondary. He's probably 1 year my senior. During my secondary school days, there are alot of foreign students, mostly from Indonesia and Taiwan. So. it's really a small world.

The rugged Taiwan

Anyone who is into nature , adventure or trekking would fall in love with Taiwan. Taiwan has over 200 peaks above 3000mt. Very impressive for a country with this land mass. Taiwan is almost as big as peninsula Malaysia, if not slightly wider in width. There are endless peaks to climb, rivers to raft, cliffs to rappel, waves to surf, hot springs to soak, awesome trail to cycle. I highly recommend a road trip round the island, especially along the east coast highway.

Taipei church sunday service.

When we were arrived at the church meeting place, we were greeted by one of the church leader Siying. Service was held in an auditorium with good facilities. I don't know why I need to add in the word 'good facilities'. I think I still associated auditorium with KAPT, which most of you would be able to related to the bad facilities.

I took a couple of video of the service, including singing, welcome. preaching. All the songs were familiar, except that there wasn't any screening of the lyrics, so I end up just humming the bass parts of the songs. During the welcome part, we were introduced to the congregation. Our Taiwanese brothers and sisters greeted us warmly. Many came forward to fellowship with us when the service ended before 12pm.

The fellowship was great! Met so many brothers and sisters. I got to know a brother who is an avid trekker. He organises at least 2 trips annually to trek Taiwan mountain. We paid 4000NT to a local agency. According to the brother, the total expenditure for a trip organise by him would probably be less than 1000 NT (S$50). Sounds good ya. I think I will come back again, possible arrange a trip for brothers and sisters from Singapore and Taiwan. I want to trek the Holy Trail (Shen Ling Xian), Nan Hu Da Shan and many many others.

Like i was saying, lots of disciple fellowship with us after the service. Siying brought me to met a brother, Ah Hong. I will be staying at the brothers' flat for a week. Then there was this sister by the name of Joyce. She brought us to this famous tomato soup beef noodle where alot of christian lunch after service.

Joyce is really very nice, after lunch, she brought us to a CD shop to burn my pics into a CD so that Deon can bring it back to Singapore. Along the way, we drop by a Thai restaurant opened by a brother. He was born in Myanmar, but later reside in Taiwan. He also know the Myanmar church leader Ang Ko Ko Win (sorry wrong spelling). Ah Shen treated us to Bo Bo Char Char.
In the afternoon, Grace brought me to a photo gallery. The disciples actually from different interest groups so that they can create more opportunity to reach out to more friends. So this group of christian come together to put their works together.

Road trip around Kending

Road trip around Kending, originally uploaded by Jerry Tok.

Enchanting Taiwan.. Touch your heart.

Taiwan is so beautiful, it is really hard to not be moved by her beautiful nature and the re qing (warm) people. Photo was taken at Long Pan along east coast highway.

Chu Huo

Chu Huo, originally uploaded by Jerry Tok.

Chu Hou is a short drive away from Heng Chun. The fire are caused by natural gas leaking to the surface from far underground. The gas ignite upon contact with oxygen.

Lazy Sat

I read Genesis 20-21 using the chinese bible.

Met Fang Jing at Taipei Main Station. When I got there, I realise I forgotten the exit that I was suppose to meet him. So I just humtum 1 exit. Much to my disappointment, he was not there. I sms him to update him on my location.

Fangjing arrive and brought me to a small lane. I saw a Pategonia shop. Taiwanese are very willing to splurge on trekking gears. From my Yushan and Xueshan experience, the majority of the trekkers are locals. The only foriegners I met were 5 Germans. Most locals are uncles and aunties. My group is probably the youngest group. Like I said, the uncles and aunties wore expensive trekking gears- North Face, Eiger, Atunas and etc.

Brunch at an Indonesian food stall. Interestingly, I actually felt at home. The owner looks like an indonesian chinese. I can understand their bahasa indonesian. They speak mandarin and Taiyu as well. On the menu are mee goreng, Lontong, curry.. Even have chilli sauce leh... So nice.

Trekking Jade mountain and Snow mountain

I just trekking Xue shan last Thurs. I am very impressed with the trek. Got snow some more. I will upload more pics when there's opportunity.

Yushan is a disappointment. As the weather is bad, we couldn't get to the summit. sigh....

Kending, Taiwan most southern peak

We drove a few hundred meters from the foot of Yushan to Kending. The road trip was nice. The best part about driving your own vehicle is that you can go anywhere, stop anywhere, eat anywhere.

Took about 30mins to find a suitable accommodation to suit to everyone's needs. Since this is off peak season, room comes cheap. Will be staying here for 2 night. Leaving for Taipei on Friday. I look forward to the east coast highway road trip. I heard that it is very beautiful.

Taiwan, here I come

I am ready to go. Everything's packed.

Deon and Fang are waiting for us at Taipei at our hotel. They went there on monday to catch up on shopping.

23 Nov Thurs- Departs for Xueshan. As the name implies, the mountain has snow capped peak. I'll take some pictures to confirm the snow part. I'll be back in Taipei on Sunday night.

27 Nov Mon- Departs for Yushan. Taiwan highest and hottest mountain. It is so hot that you have to ballot to get a permit to climb this touristy mountain. Compare to Gunung Kinabula, Yushan is easier.

29 Nov Wed- Sight seeing Taiwan. Going to the most southern part of taiwan call Kending. There's so much to do there- Surfing, beautiful beach, nice hiking trail, scenic coastal road.