Helembu and Gosaikun (or Gosainkunda)

Photos are used with permission from ooichunhaw.

My first visit to Nepal was in 2004. Since then, I've trek in Nepal for about 4 times. So far, it has always been the Annapurna region. In April, I decided that I'm going to explore other region. This time to the Helembu and Gosaikun (or Gosainkunda) area.

For most people who are considering Nepal as a trekking destination, the first place that comes to their mind is probably Everest and rightly so. Everest is the highest peak in the world and most people would like to go there. Though they might not have the money or mountaineering skills to get to the summit, the thought of getting to base camp really sounds appealing.

Next, Annapurna is the next most popular trekking destination in Nepal. Poon Hill at 3210mt is known for its beautiful sunrise. On a clear day, one can experience 360 degree of snow peak mountain. Those who have more time can trek up to Annapurna base camp, passing through Machhapuchhre base camp on the way. Of course, Annapurna Circuit Trek is also very popular. Many trekkers have also heard of Mustang and Jomson, which is pretty north and borders Tibet and hence, very strong Tibetan influences in that region.

Then comes Lang Tang. This area is quite big. When most people refer to Lang Tang, they are referring to the Lang Tang Valley trek to be specific. Gosaikun is found in Lang Tang national park and a few days trek from Lang Tang Valley.

For my trek, there are 2 ways to do it - Start from the north and ends in the south or vice verse. In this trek, I will be trekking in the Lang Tang national park, Helembu national park and Shivapuri national park. I did it from south to north. A few reason for my decision. First, the starting point at Sundarijal is only 40mins from Thamel by taxi. Secondly, the trek starts at a low altitude of 1000mt. Thirdly, I really can't imagine spending 8-10hrs on a local bus if I were to start the trek from the north (Dunche or Shyafru Bensi)

Day 1 - Kathmandu-Sundarijal-Chisopani-Gulphu Bangyang

Day 2 - Gulphu Bangyang-Magin Goth

Day 3 - Magin Goth-Phedi

Day 4 -Phedi-Laurebina Pass-Gosaikun Lake-Laurebina

Day 5 - Laurebina - Cholong Pati - Thulo Shyafru

Day 6 - Thulo Shyafru

Day 7 - Thulo Shyafru - Shyafru Bensi

Day 8 - Shyafru Bensi - Kathmandu (by bus)

If you are examining the brief itinerary and wonder if I complete the trek in 5-6 days? The answer is yes. But I DO NOT recommend you do the same. I did this trek right after I did Poon Hill and so my body is pretty conditioned already (not forgetting I train for it in Singapore). My friend was not coping well with the altitude due to a combination of reason - We were carrying our own load of 12-15kg, this could potential lead to over exertion. We were doing 7-9 hours trek in a day, which also contribute to over exertion. And we did not follow the guideline to not ascend more than 300m a day, and 1 extra day of rest for every 1000mt gain.

If you want to avoid AMS and the symptoms of it, I would highly recommend that you set aside 8 days to do this. Never mind that some days are just 3 hours trek, if you want to have a nice time on the mountain without getting sick, you should not ascend too fast within a short period. If you are not conditioned to carry all your load on your back, hire a guide and porter to help you.

Day 1 - Kathmandu-Sundarijal-Chisopani-Gulphu Bangyang

We planned to take a taxi from Thamel to Sundarijal. At 0645hrs, I brought all my luggage down to the hotel lobby. 1 big luggage was meant to be left in the hotel.

The hotel restaurant staff were setting up the table, we set down at table that was ready and order a standard breakfast. I noticed that 2 guys with large backpack came back and inform the hotel lobby that buses would not be in operation today due to a strike. A strike usually means that all from of motorist transportation will not be allowed on the streets due to closure of road. My plans to get to Sundarijal could be affected. I quickly spoke to the hotel staff to get an update on the situation. There is a possibility that I would not be able to get a taxi. I persuade him to help while I wait anxiously for my breakfast. Just when my coffee arrived, a hotel staff came to me with a good news that a taxi is willing to send me for a fee twice the regular at RP2,000. I certainly do not want to spend another day in Thamel, I want to be in the mountain. We hastily cancelled the rest of the breakfast order, paid for the beverage and hope on the taxi. I left my luggage in the lobby hoping that the staff will store in properly. At this point, I am really concerned about leaving Thamel as early as possible.

Fortunately, whoever is organising the strike is not quite and early bird. On the main road, things seems to be normal. There were some people standing around but i couldn't be sure that they will be involved in the strike. Nevertheless, I still felt tensed throughout the journey. 20 mins into the ride, we enter the more outskirt part, I felt more at eased.

We arrived at Sundarijal in 40mins. When I got out of the car, I try to confirm with the driver that this is the place where I can start to trek up to my first check point Chisopani. He spoke little English and so a lot of patience is needed to communicate. I supposed this is it. We took our bag and I look around for breakfast. Bought some local snack that looks like doughnut and some mimosa. I should get some energy before the trek.

Started the trek by following the the huge pipe on my right. Past by a few unattractive hotel. Also saw signage of Shivapuri park. When I took a closer look at the map, I realise that I am not far from Kakani and Nagarkot. These are the 2 trek that a lot of Singapore school group are interested.

We paid rp 250 for Shivapuri park permit. Like most Nepal check point, there is usually a sign board to inform trekkers that a permit or a fee has to be made before proceeding. We met a girl who is accompanied by a local guide. We exchange hi and proceed before her.

When we arrived at Mulkharka, there was a hotel. There are a few trail here and so I ask for direction. Walk thru the village and met the Sherpas of this region. Slightly different from the Tamang and Gurung from the Ghorepani region, Sherpa ppl do not smile at you or exchange greetings with u. Nothing wrong with that, I just need to get used to it. Along the way, you can see villages doing traditional basket weaving and farming activities.

The girl whom we met caught up with us and we chat. She thought I was Japanese and I found out she's Korean. She's got quite a cool job as a scuba diving instructor. She gets to travel and based in different part of the world depending on how long she like to stay. So this period is actually her holiday. She has so much time that after Gosainkunda, she will continue on to the Lang Tang valley. I think she have 15-20 days to trek in this region. Lucky her, I only have 8 days.

We came to a junction which I believe is Chisopani. I look at my watch at realised it's not even past mid date. I stop at the guest house when I saw the Korean. Perhaps she makes a good travel companion.

Over dinner, my friend and I decided that it was too early to stop for the day. We took out the map and examine the terrain and trekking hours if we were to proceed to the next teahouse. Furthermore, Chisopani isn't that great to warrant 1 night stay I thought.

I looked out of the window and I thought I saw people jogging in proper jogging attire. At this altitude and terrain was my first thought. Later I met one of the organisor and found out it was a 400km race. My goodness, I thought The Northface 100km run in Singapore was crazy, these people are running at high altitude and cover 4 times the distance. Its was later that I found out they are not recreational joggers but rather elite professional joggers. And they are stay overnight at Gulphu Bangyang.

We set off for Gulphu Bangyang after lunch. Didn't see the Korean girl though. Along the way, there were a couple of junction without proper marker. Perhaps it was due to the race, we could see arrows at some of these junction. Some we spray with red paint, others were mark on the ground. I wonder if these arrows are always there? I may have taken a few wrong turns if not for the arrows.

The clouds start coming in. Although it was 530pm, it felt like the sun is able to set. It's starting to drizzling slightly. There is still no sign of Gulphu Bangyang. I check against my watch and assure myself it should be just round the corner. Suddenly, it dawn on me that what if there is no more accommodation? Remember the race? These people must have taken up a lot of teahouse.

I saw I teahouse and went in to enquiry. A caucasion men explains to me that their place is fully book for the night. I was disappointed. Then he told me there is a teahouse just meters away. I thought I heard him speak Nepali and wonder if he is the owner or some kind of permenant resident here.

We quickly walk over. Relieved that there is a room. It's a long day and I really don't want to walk anymore, especially walking in the dark with a headlamp.

At the dinner hall, I met a French guy who was trekking by himself. He was the the same route as me but in a different direction. I try to absord as much infor as I can about the trek condition further up. Seems like there's going to be lots of snow.

It started running heavily. We were very glad that we are in the teahouse and not trekking in the rain. So misery to be cold and wet and trekking in the dark. At night, the storm intensified and wind beat against the window. I was woken up by the sound of the it.

Day 2 - Gulphu Bangyang-Magin Goth

I realise that electricity is not readily available on this trek as confirmed by the French guy. He told me the next place I can charge my phone will be at Thulo Shyafru which is almost the end of my trek. No more photo taking even on my lousy phone camera.

Within 30mins, we reach a town. And I realise that this is actually Gulphu Bangyang. We were actually stay in another town last night. Perhaps it was too small, I couldn't find it in the map nor was it mention on the guide book. I was glad I did make it here because if I did, I am quite sure there is not more rooms here. This is a small town and with the people from the race, I'm quite sure they've taken up every single room.

Cannot remember the name of our lunch point. It was a standalone tealodge. Since I was the one who is always hungry, we stop here for tea and lunch. A group of elderly woman also come in. They look like a happy bunch of people. Couldn't tell what they are speaking. At 1 point, they broke into song. Really nice to see such joyful people.

Very happy elderly people

I can hardly get sick of Dhal Bhat

Kutumsang

At Kutumsang, there is a check post where you have to purchase the Langtang national park permit.

Magingoth

 It was a hard climb to get to Magingoth. From afar, I saw someone standing and watching us ascent. He was the running the teahouse here. He offer us to take a look at the room which I agree. I like the room and discuss with my friend. We check into the room.

There is no shower facility as expected. They can boil a flask of hot water for you to wipe yourself clean. Also, electricity is chargeable. Not only that, it is only good for 1 hour of charge at most, since this is solar power, the owner needs to conserve the battery for use at night. There is hardly any sun today due to the cloud. I hope we still can get lights at night.

It was really cloudy and drizzling at times. I check with the owner and found out it's been raining for the past 1 week. Really unusually for this time of the year. It's suppose to be sunny mostly at this time of the year.

The same group we met for lunch arrive slightly before 3pm. This is their holiday and they are in no rush to complete the trek for the day.

Dinner was great as usual because I'm hungry most of the time. My friend is tired and when to bed early. I cannot sleep so early because I am so full. Good that I prepared myself for times like this with a good book. It's another book about mountaineering. True story based on the 2008 K2 disaster.

Halfway through my book, someone brought from the kitchen a freshly baked chocolate cake. They broke into birthday songs. Then follow by gifts and hugs and kisses. I was invited over to their table and join in the celebration. I found out that they are all in their 60's. The youngest one is the birthday girl who just turned 60. There is only 1 men in their group and he's Turkish. The rest are mostly from Switzerland, some from French and Romania I think. They offer me their herbal tea and a slice of the brithday cake. It was a happy atmosophere. Before they retired for the night, someone said that the clouds had cleared. Knowing that it'll be cold outside, I put on my jacket and scarf. Indeed, there were more stars then my peripheral sight could take in.

After they left, I was sitting by the fire place with some of the local guides. This is usually the time they can relax since their guest are now in their room. I know because I am usually the last of the guest to sleep. This is also the time when they are at ease and talk about their life and family. I get ask alot about Singapore. Sometimes when they converse to each other in Nepali, I wish I could have the ablitiy to translate and comprehen Nepali. If only I had such ability.

Day 3 - Magin Goth-Phedi

Just like the last 2 nights, the storm came at night. I was disappointed. I thought the clouds cleared already.

My friend was concerned, how do we proceed to Phedi if it rains. He kept looking out of the window. I share with him that in the mountain, there is not much point in worry over weather. You work AROUND the weather. If it was meant for us to stay for a couple of hours, we have to stay. We can also pray and hope for the best. 

The rain stopped soon after we finished breakfast. Btw, it's only 730am. The other group were not up yet except a couple of them. We bid goodbye and hit the trail again. We are heading up north towards Phedi while they are turn east and to remain in the Helembu region. 

I notice from afar that the trees are cover with snow. Could it be snowing heavily yesterday? The ground I stepped on was partially covered with snow too though they are slowly melting. 

Notice the distinct line where there is visual of the snow. I believe the line is at the altitude where above it, the snow can maintain in the snow state. Below that line, the snow melts.

30 mins or so, it started to drizzle. Some time later, the drizzle turn white and they seems to fall slowly from the sky onto the ground. For my friend, this is the first time he experience snowing. Another first for him was to walk on snow. Since I was walking ahead of him and it's so early that probably no one was ahead of us, I had the privelefe to walk on fresh snow on the ground, leaving my visible footprint behind. It was nice, and I remember my prevoius trek walking on snow. At times the snow turn to water. I like to stretch out my arms and examine the snow on my jacket.

Somewhere 30mins before we reach Thadepati, the snow got heavier. At times, visibilty was reduce to 5-10mt. Another great experience. In some way, I'll rather trade the thunderstorm we get in Singapore for snow. The wind also kind of pick up too. I saw a tealodge and recognise that this is Thadepati. We went in for a break and to warm up with a cup of tea over the heater. My friend was really happy to experience snowing. He took photos of himself in the snow. 

Between here to Phedi, there were plenty of up and down. This up and down terrain can be really draining. Supposely the altitude gain from Thadepati to Phedi is just 300mt ascend. But in between I have to descend 400m, climb 500m, descend  300m and finally climb 500m. 

Totally drenched and needed heat badly

We stopped for lunch briefly at Ghopte. I ordered instant noodle for the both of us. Hours of walking in snow and rain, I was almost thoroughly drenched from precipitation and my own perspiration. 

It's almost 4pm. My legs and shoulders are on the verge of complaining that it's time to stop for the day. Finally I have visual of a tealodge, it had better be Phedi. 

I was surprise to see a solo female trekker coming my way. She ask me how long I took to get here and I told her almost 3hrs. I was hoping she will reconsider trekking so near to the sunset hours. But she went on. On hindsight, I think that was unnecessary risk taken on her part. I have did my little part by telling her how long it took. 

As usual, I went into the first tealodge to enquiry for room. 

Met a German girl and her female friend from UK. This UK girl has been living in Nepal for 3 years and she has done quite a lot of trek in Nepal, including Mustang. She didn't have to pay for the hefty permit to enter Mustang due to some reason I also can't remember. I was interesting to hear how is the monsoon like from mid May to Oct. This is actually their 2nd night at Phedi because the German girl had a bad flu, so they decide it would be wise to rest 1 more day before attempting the Pass. 

I found out they are not actually intending to stay at Gosainkund (4380mt) as most guide book would suggest. They are descending further to Laurebina (3910mt). This tip turns out very handy which I found out the next day.

Since this is not a big lodge, it doesn't take long for me to meet all the guest. I was interested to find out who is actually going the same direction as me. After interacting with the guides, I found out that 2 groups are heading the direction - a German looking couple and the 2 ladies I met. Before I arrive at Phedi, I met a few group of trekkers who have time to stop for a quick chat. I gathered that it's a matter of timing. 1 group told me it was total white-out when they cross the Pass, they other group said the weather cleared after crossing the Pass while descending. I was told to be really careful if there is heavy snowing because visiblity will be reduced and the trails will be harder to distinguiush. I was glad that there are other groups ascending to the Pass together, it least I know their guides would be familiar with the route. Also, with someone opening the trail on the snow, it makes walking easier.

Day 4 -Phedi-Laurebina Pass-Gosaikun Lake-Laurebina

Notice the sign says that you can spot the Thai Air plane that crash her years ago.

At Phedi, happy that we are crossing the Laurebina Pass today.

We woke up to a clear day. Hardly any clouds in the sky. We congrajulate each other for the fine weather. You can tell from the fresh snow how much snow was accummulated last night.

 

The German looking couple started first. After 10mins, we put on our pack and started trekking too. The first part was quite hard climb. I could see the German looking couple were pretty strong, they were getting further and further away from us. The 2 ladies were just right behind us. As the minutes past, the German looking group walk further and further, the 2 ladies behind us came closer and closer. I thought to myself, "Are we slow or what?" Yes we are. But we are not in a rush to complete the day's trek, furthermore, we are carrying our own load while the 2 groups have porter surport. Later, the 2 ladies overtook us. 

The sun was intense and I quickly take out my sunglasses. Temperature was probably around 10 DC, so a base layer and a waterproof outer shell is warmed enough unless when the wind comes. Covering your head using the hood is quite important too. 

If you enlarge this photo, you'll be able to see the other groups ahead of us.

It was white all around.

Almost there.

Final reach the pass.

I became the camera man. This picture onwards are all descending.

I really enjoy going down. There are some much snow, I can run, slide, skid my way down.

 The white piece in the middle is the frozen lake of Gosainkunda. It's not frozen throughout the year.

 I thought I can walk on the frozen lake. But upon close examination, I realise it's not rock solid frozen. I really don't think it's a good idea to attempt walking the lake.

It's bright and sunny out there. Many people are sitting outside to bake themself. Once you step in the house or under shadow, it gets quite cold.

 Finally arrived at Gosainkunda, stop here for lunch while deciding if we should stay or not.

We took about 5 hours to get from Phedi to Gosaikunda.

Had a discussion with my friend on whether we should stay or descend to the next town. He didn't want to stay because Gosainkunda was too high and too cold for comfort. We are now at 4380m and the temp indoor is probably 5-10. I am quite sure night temperature will dip below 0 DC.

After about 2 hours of lunch break, we continue our journey. 

I love this section from Gosaikunda to Laurebina. I'm glad I'm still feeling pretty good and get to enjoy the sceneray.

Gosainkunda lake is one of the many lake. Notice that this lake is not frozen.

From this point onwards, Laurebina will be within sight in 15 mins.

 We stopped here for a break. This place is too beautiful for me to simply walk through it. I'm enjoying every moment here with my friend. I'm really happy to see that he's feeling better than when we were at Gosainkunda. 

It was here that I met a couple from Cezh and Slovakia. We both have little knowledge of each other so we spend time talking. According to him, Cezh is a affordable place to live and visit. They are the first people I met in person who have done the Zanskar trek in India, this is a trek that I am very interested.

I spent some time thinking of my plans for the next 3 days. Eventually I settled on Shyafru Bensi. And depending on the time we get there, I might continue on to do part of the Tamang Heritage Trail.

Day 5-6 - Laurebina - Cholong Pati - Thulo Shyafru

Signs were put up to warn trekkers the danger of altitude sickness.

 This is Cholong Pati. From here, the trails turns right to Thulo Shyafru and left to Shim Gompa. We took the right and enter the pine forest. This section is very steep, I'm glad that today I am going down. Can be quite slippery too as the snow melts, causing ground to be wet and muddy.

 Couldn't resist a cup of tea at this beautiful place. Mukkharka is not on my map. I would have try to make a overnight stop here if I knew.

Supposedly, this area is the natural habitat of Red Panda. I didn't see any though.

 As we descend, we approach villages. There're fields and sheeps and cattles.

Another beautiful day trek. We walk through the forest of pine trees and occasionally saw the rheodedneron trees.

Ganesh Himal Hotel, Thulo Shyafru (Urken's parents hotel)

As mentioned in my friend's blog, one of the highlight of this trip is meeting Urken and his family. On that day, we started from Laurebina. The original plan was to descend over 1000m to Shyafru Bensi, stopping for lunch in between. Estimate time taken to get to Shyafru Bensi was 6hrs. That day, I wasn't very pleased with my friend. Nothing unusual but just as anyone who are close to each other, they are bound to be times when you step on each others toe. Most brothers goes thru that. This was one of the days. Because of that, I was walking slight more ahead of him than usual. On top of that, I was hungry and all I can think is food.

We arrived at Thulo Shyafru and my mind was set on this bigger lodge somewhere in the middle of the town. As I walked towards my target, I saw a lodge on my right and turn to look at the people sitting outside. Then I heard an uncle asking "Do you want to have lunch here? And we have fast food" The key word was "fast". When I trek in Nepal, I get hungry all the time and I eat like 1.5 to 2 times the portion I usually eat. So we stop and stepped into the dining hall. I usually ask for recommendation but most of the time I just get a generic answer that everything is nice. I ask because I believe that every lodge must have something they are better at.

This time was different. This young man came forward and recommended Apple Pie to me. I was impressed by his honest reply. This is how I met Urken and his family.

Apple pie was fantastic, the best I have eaten in Nepal. I also order Mo Mo but since my friend doesn't have great appetite, partly for the pain in his eyes, I finish 1 big Apple Pie and a plate of Mo Mo almost all by myself. I was happy.

We were undecided if we should proceed to Shyafru Bensi or stay. I decided to stay put for awhile so that my friend can rest his eyes. At the same time, I can charge my phone for the first time since I start trekking 4 days ago. I was even more glad to receive signal on my mobile.

At 230pm, I ask my buddy if he feels good enough to move? If not, we can always stay 1 more night here. Urken told us about the hot water shower here. The odds to stay were stack against leaving. Over here, my  friend can rest his eyes, there is electricity to charge my phone and mobile signal for me to whatsapp, it is much warmer her as compare to the last few days, and finally the irresistible hot water shower. There is really no reason not to stay. Oh did I mentioned that I have plans to order the Apple Pie again?

The next 2 days were relaxing and great for recuperate. I had a good hot shower first of all. The rest of the time was really relax. I read my book, chit chat with the locals, walk around the town, examine the menu and plan what to order for the next meal. I've got pretty close to Urken and he started to treat me like his friends. In the evening, he ask me to join him for his usual routine walk. We sat at this place and he even buy me tea. We spend half an hour hear until it gets a bit too windy. On the way back, we met his cousin sister. She was funny and both of them are joking and making fun of each other. Also met Urken's uncle and got a blessing from him.

These are some of the photos I took at Thulo Shyafru.

 

ON our 2nd day, I asked Urken if it's a good idea to make a day trip Lama Hotel and back. 5-6 hrs is pretty long. Urken then suggest he bring me and my friend for a walk. After lunch, we put on out trekking boots and follow him. We were brought to Brabal. Brabal is famous for organic apple. But his is not the season for apple though we still get to see the trees. When we arrive at a monastery, we sat down and rest. This was the spot that Urken and his close friend's hang out when his friend got married. I realise this was a special place for Urken, it was a privileged that my friend and I were to be able to share it.

On our last night on the mountain, I wanted to hang around a little bit and so I went out to see the stars. Urken and his brothers were there. We chat and look at the beautiful clear sky. My friend join us not long after. Before we know it, it's 10pm. In the mountain, this is consider late. I normally sleep at 9pm.

Day 7 - Thulo Shyafru - Shyafru Bensi

We left Ganesh Himal Hotel after lunch. We took a parting photo. Both uncle and auntie treated us to 1 round of tea each as a parting gift. We were giving the traditional scarf for a safe journey. We gave them a hug and left. I felt different leaving Thulo Shyafru because I made friends here and we were treated like family. I felt even more heavy hearted for coming to the end of the trek and for bidding goodbye to my friends.

Thulo Shyafru to Shyafru Bensi

We took less than 2 hours to reach Shyafru Bensi. There are 2 metal bridges to cross before we come to the new Shyafru Bensi. We bought our local bus ticket (Rs 300) for Kathmandu, The bus departs 0630hrs. We checked into a hotel and settled our dinner there too.

More photos can be found here.